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Chủ đề: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

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  1. #21
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Learn To Sculpt
    1:12 Green Apples
    with Italian Artist
    Barbara Dezza


    Materials Needed:
    • Polymer Clay
      - Green: (Green Spring or Green Leaf)
      - Terracotta
      - Translucent
      - White
      - Yellow
    • Chalk Pastels
      - Green
      - Red
    • Wilton Industries© Flower Tool Or Similar
    • Toothpick
    • Razor Blade
    • Roller Tool Or Similar
    • Varnish: Shiny
    • Tile To Bake On
    • Talcum Powder
    • Baby Wipes








    Close-up images of materials needed
    Enlarge picture of basic supply requirements







    1. Mixed equal parts of white and translucent clay.
    Enlarge picture showing clay mixture

    2. This is the color that you want!
    Enlarge picture showing how color of mixture

    3. Now mix the rest of the white and the translucent clay with the green and the yellow clay. Proportions are approximately 3:2:1:1/2 (Yellow, Green, Translucent, White).
    Enlarge picture showing clay colors to mix

    4. After combining, your color mixture should be spring green in color. This will be use this for the peel of the apple.
    Enlarge picture showing how combined clay mixtures

    5. Next you will make the pulp of the apple. Take a small portion of the spring green clay you just made and combine it with the white from Step 1. Reference the image for proportions.
    Enlarge picture showing sizes of clay to combine

    6. Check the color in the image, this is the color consistency you want for the apple pulp.
    Enlarge picture showing the tint of the clay

    7. Here you can compare the greenish clay that you've just combined with the white made in the preceding steps.
    Enlarge picture showing the tint of the clay

    8. Make a little cylinder shape.
    Enlarge picture showing how cylinder shaped clay

    9. Take the apple skin green clay you've mixed. Using the roller, stretch the clay to make a thin layer of the green clay. If the clay sticks to the roller, dust lightly with the talcum powder.
    Enlarge picture showing how to make a thin layer of clay

    10. Here is the thin roll.
    Enlarge picture showing clay after rolling

    11. Place the off white/beige clay cylinder onto the green strip of clay.
    Enlarge picture showing the combining of inner and outer clays of apple

    12. Wrap the green clay around the lighter colored clay; cut off any excess, making the inside clay fit to the edges as shown
    Enlarge picture showing the rolled clays

    13. Begin working the clay from the center, working your way to the edges.
    Enlarge picture showing how to roll the clay

    14. Lengthen the cane by continuing to roll from the center to the edges. Roll until you have an approximate diameter of around half centimeter (approx. 0.20 inch).
    Enlarge picture showing approximate length you want to achieve

    15. Once you have the diameter you want, cut the cane in long segments around 6-7 millimeters (approx 0.27 inch).
    Enlarge picture showing size of cuts

    16. Take one of the cut segments. With your fingers, softly close the two ends of the segment. Form a little ball to form the apple shape. Do not mush the clay in the center. Now slightly lengthened, making the base more narrow (spherical shaped).
    Enlarge picture showing how to shape the basic apple

    17. Use your Wilton Industries© flower tool to indent the top part of the apple (hollow).
    Enlarge picture showing where to use the tool

    18. Using your toothpick, make a small indentation hole and score slightly around the hole.
    Enlarge picture showing where to use the toothpick

    19. Take a small piece of terracotta polymer clay and roll into an oblong shape to use for the stem. Cut a 1/8 inch length for the stems. Set aside.
    Enlarge picture showing how to make the apple stem

    20. With your toothpick, slightly score around the bottom hole of the apple and insert a tiny piece of the terracotta clay into the hole.
    Enlarge picture showing how to score the bottom of the apple

    21. How it should look after you've added the terracotta clay.
    Enlarge picture showing scored bottom

    22. Take a piece of the terracotta stem and insert into the top hole you made with the Wilton Industries� tool.
    Enlarge picture showing where to insert the stem

    23. Voil� the completed apples!!
    Enlarge picture showing completed apples

    VARIATIONS

    You have completed making green apples.

    In the following steps, you will learn how to take the apples that you just made and create variations including, a half apple, apples slices and core apples.

    But before you begin, you will need to cure the apples you just made for at least an hour or place in the refrigerator for around ten minutes. Don�t let the clay near your real food though). Rushing this will result in clay that is too soft.






    24. MAKE APPLE HALVES
    Using your razor blade, cut one apple in half. Remove the core.
    Enlarge picture showing how to slice the apple

    25. Using the point of the toothpick, score a light dividing line straight down the middle of the apple half.
    Enlarge picture showing where to score the apple halves

    26. Again using your toothpick, make two points in the center of the apple where the seeds would naturally be.
    Enlarge picture showing where to mark the seed areas

    27. Put a small piece of clay (Terracotta) in the hollows simulating the seeds.
    Enlarge picture showing where to place the seeds

    28. MAKE APPLE SLICES
    Cut the apple in four equal parts. Always watch out that the clay is hard before you attempt to cut.
    Enlarge picture showing how to quarter the apple

    29. CORE AN APPLE
    Select a solid apple.
    Enlarge picture showing preparation

    30. With your blade, begin cutting very thin slices of the apple until you have cored out the entire apple, as shown.
    Enlarge picture showing how to core the apple

    31. Using your toothpick, score a small indentation to simulate a seed area. Take a small piece of Terracotta clay and insert into the area. This is the seed of the apple.
    Enlarge picture showing where to seed the apple

    32. VOILA�!!! Cored apples.
    Enlarge picture showing cored apples

    33. WHOLE APPLE WITH CUT PEEL
    Take a whole apple and with the point of the blade, you can peel from the top just like you would do with a real apple.
    Enlarge picture showing how to peel the apple
    Woman of short-lived passions

  2. #22
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Learn to sculpt
    1:12 Dollhouse Bread
    with IGMA Fellow
    Betsy Niederer


    Materials Needed:
    • Premo© Polymer Clay
      - Translucent
      - White
      - Cadmium Yellow (Or Equivalent Polymer Clay)
    • Artist Pastels
      - Yellow Ochre
      - Medium Brown
      - Dark Brown
    • Sand Paper or Rough Rock
    • Aluminum Foil
    • Thin Paint Brush
    • Cornstarch Or White Chalk
    • Matte Varnish
    • Ground Apricot Pits* Or Black Sand (Both Are Optional If You Cannot Find Them)
      - *Ground Apricot Pits Can Be Found In The Soap Making Section Of Many Craft Stores
    • Baby Wipes







    PREPARATION

    Please wash your hands really well and dry them with a paper towel or if possible a light colored towel ~ you won't believe the amount of lint that you pick up from towels and it all shows up in white clay!







    1. This step illustrates the clay recipe - 1:1 white/translucent + tiny bit of yellow - use only about half of the amount of yellow that's pictured there...I sort of over-did it! If your bread mix clay comes out too yellow for your taste, just break off about half, and mix it up with more of the 1:1 white/translucent mix. That should fix the problem.
    Enlarge picture showing clay recipe

    2. Make sure the clay is warm and well mixed or roll it through your pasta machine if you have one. Make a log about ½ inch thick – it doesn’t have to be exact!
    Enlarge picture showing how size of log

    3. Cut the log into chunks about 1/3 inch thick – and form the chunks into balls – the balls should be about ½ inch in diameter. Please don’t worry if they are not exactly that size. This is one area where you don't have to worry so much about scale. Just make sure that they aren't huge.

    You can make as many of the clay balls as you want. Keep some round, and then form some into long loaves. The long loaves can measure about 3/4" long and about 1/4" wide. If you want you can even lengthen them more to make baguettes.
    Enlarge picture showing size of clay formed balls

    4. After you've formed the balls into round and long loaves – texture the tops with your sand paper. I specified a medium-grit because I didn't know what you had available near you. I tend to use 50-60 grit paper more often than the coarser types. In the picture I'm using a rock that I found in my back yard. Rocks work great too!
    Enlarge picture showing how to texture the clay

    TIP

    Texturing your bread also covers up any fingerprints. If you'd like your bread to be smooth and you want to get rid of fingerprints, take some of your chalk or cornstarch and lightly buff the top of the loaf. It's abrasive enough to get rid of them.






    5. Next get out the foil. Roll up a piece of foil into a long thin snake shape. Try to get it really crinkly for the best effect. Press it into the top of the breads to make “cracks” in the loaf. You can even rough up the cracks a bit with a pin.
    Enlarge picture showing how to create cracks in the clay

    6. To make the “country bread” make a tick tac toe board on the top of the round loaf. I usually make 2 or 3 diagonal cracks on the top of the long loaf.
    Enlarge picture showing how to make country styled miniature bread using your foil

    7. To make the oblong bread appear cracked, mark the long loaf on a diagonal as shown, 2 or 3 markings or crack impressions will work nicely.
    Enlarge picture showing how to create cracks in the french styled bread

    8. Your loaves should look something like this. Don't worry if they aren't perfect, because most real bread isn't.
    Enlarge picture showing how the bread appears at this stage

    TIP

    My favorite pastel brand is Schmincke. They are expensive, but since you are only using a small amount, a stick lasts a long time. You can get them at Dick Blick Art Materials for a discount. Rembrandt Chalks Budget Art Materials are good too. I like the more expensive pastels because they tend to be richer in color. Just make sure that the chalk pastels that you buy are soft - so you can powder them easily.






    9. Now you will color the bread before you bake it. The color bakes into the clay.

    First, cut off a small piece of your chalk pastels - the yellow ochre, medium brown, and the dark brown - and grind them up into a powder. You can use some of your sand paper to do this, I use a craft stick, or I'll put them on a tile - cover them with a piece of paper, and step on them. Keep your crushed powders in separate piles, don't mix them
    Enlarge picture showing how to prepare the chalk

    10. We're going to start with a base color of yellow ochre. Cover the cracks in the bread with a clean piece of foil – then using a soft brush gently apply yellow ochre all over the top of the breads. The foil keeps the cracks clean.
    Enlarge picture showing where to use the ochre chalk

    11. This picture will show you what they are supposed to look like.

    Apply the color all over the breads and try to keep the cracks clean. If you get some in the cracks, it's really not a big deal - just do your best.
    Enlarge picture showing how the bread should look after the ochre chalk

    12. Be bold when adding the base color. One of the things I've noticed with beginners is they tend to not put enough yellow on, so don't be afraid to make the clay a nice rich yellow.
    Enlarge picture showing another piece of bread after the ochre chalk blush

    13. The second layer of color is where your bread starts to look baked.

    Using a clean soft brush take some of the medium brown chalk and brush it lightly over the top of the loaf – try to think about how a loaf would really brown in the oven – what areas would be darker and what areas lighter. You'll want to be more sparing with the color this time. If you notice that your brown chalk is too 'brown', just dilute it a bit with some of the yellow chalk before applying it to your loaf. You'll want to concentrate more on the top of the loaf, and try to gently blend it down over the sides. Leave some yellow peeping out around the base of the bread.
    Enlarge picture showing the second layer of color

    TIP

    You'll be coloring both loaves - even though just the round loaf is pictured. If you're worried about getting chalk into the cracks, remember to use your foil.






    14. This picture isn't the greatest to show this since it came out lighter than I wanted it. So if you'd like to add some darker brown areas, like where the bread might have burnt a little in the oven; you can go back with a thin brush and touch up some of the areas with the darkest brown to give your loaf more depth and “personality”.

    You'd want to do this on the top, near the edges of the cracks. Just picture a nice crusty rustic loaf, and take it from there. Don’t over do it with the dark brown or it will look like my real loaves do, burnt!
    Enlarge picture showing where to touch up the bread with darker chalks

    15. Ok, time to preheat your oven. You can bake your bread right on a tile, if you are using one, or on a piece of foil. If your oven is old you might want to invest in an oven thermometer to make sure it is at the correct temperature. Bake according to the package recommendations. I bake my loaves for about 30 minutes. I like to let them cool in the oven - In my opinion it helps the clay to strengthen.
    Enlarge picture showing baking preparations

    16. Get out the varnish, cornstarch/chalk, and ground apricot pits or sand. This is one time when I break my own rule about not using 'food' items in clay. The ground apricot pits make nice nuts/seeds, and since they are on top of the bread and sealed in varnish I haven't had any problems with the clay itself breaking down. I would not mix them into the clay. Black sand makes wonderful poppy seeds, so if you're afraid to use the pits this is a nice substitute.
    Enlarge picture showing how to accent the bread

    17. Brush the round loaf with matte varnish, again avoiding the cracks. Then sprinkle with a light coating of ground apricot pits/sand – let it dry. If you need to add a bit more that’s fine, just keep them out of the cracks. When dry you can add a top coat of matte varnish to seal them.
    Enlarge picture showing how to apply the varnish

    TIP

    I've also not had any problems with cornstarch. I know that some people prefer talc, but I don't like to work with it since it's a carcinogen (well, the plasticizers in clay aren't that great for you either, but they don't get airborn like talc can). If you are in an area where critters are a problem, white chalk works really well in place of the cornstarch.






    18. Pat the cornstarch/chalk over the varnish. Let it dry.
    Enlarge picture showing where to apply the cornstarch

    19. Using a soft brush, lightly dust off any excess powder. The cornstarch/chalk simulates flour.
    Enlarge picture showing results after removing excess powder

    20. Viola! You have made dollhouse miniature bread!
    Enlarge picture showing your completed breads
    Woman of short-lived passions

  3. #23
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Learn To Make A Dish Rack
    From Found Objects
    with CDHM Artisan
    Gosia Suchodolska


    Tools and Materials Needed:
    • Cutting Mat
    • Glue: Fast Drying Super Glue Type
    • Paint Brush
    • Paint: Model Type: Matte Black or Silver
    • Plastic Hair Curler/Roller (The inner part, the diameter about 2.5 cm)
    • Sharp Knife








    Close-up images of materials needed
    Enlarge picture of basic supply requirements











    INSTRUCTOR COMMENTS

    Make sure you've got everything you're going to need. If possible use a new blade in your knife. The sharper it is the better the final effect. Good light is also essential.







    1. Take the inner part of your hair curler. Carefully trim off all those comb-like pieces along the ribs. Please, don't press your knife too hard. This type of plastic is usually pretty soft. Take your time while doing it. You will probably have to correct some places to achieve a really smooth finish.
    Enlarge picture showing how to trim hair roller

    2. Cut off the thick circle as shown in the photo.
    Enlarge picture showing where to start cutting

    3. You should now have two separate pieces.
    Enlarge picture showing cut end

    4. Turn the curler. Begin cutting the curler / roller after counting off six sections. Count them carefully and cut off the rest.
    Enlarge picture showing additional cuts of the roller

    5. In my case I have to get rid of three sections.
    Enlarge picture showing how to adjust the cut lengths

    6. Place the curler on your mat vertically. Slowly cut it through along one of the long ribs.
    Again don't press the knife too hard.
    Enlarge picture showing where to cut along the length

    7. Count four sections across and again cut down along the long rib.
    Enlarge picture showing where to cut next

    8. You will now have two separate parts as shown in the photo below. Keep both of them, please.
    Enlarge picture showing two separate piece to the roller

    9. Take the part consisting of four sections and remove the fragments of the ribs between the bows.
    Enlarge picture showing where to trim

    10. Keep working until you get a smooth surface as shown in the picture.
    Enlarge picture showing where to continue trimming

    11. We're going to make the base now. Take the other part of your curler.
    Count two ribs and cut them off as demonstrated in the picture.
    Enlarge picture showing the base of the rack

    12. Roller after cutting should look like this.
    Enlarge picture showing progress so far

    13. Place it flat on your mat and remove the fragments of the bows on both sides leaving only the first and the last one.
    Enlarge picture showing how to remove the fragments

    14. After cutting the roller piece should look like the image here.
    Enlarge picture showing progress after removing the fragments

    15. At this stage you should have two parts, as shown that have been cut from the one roller.
    If necessary correct your work and smooth all possible imperfections.
    Enlarge picture showing the two cut parts

    16. Trim off any ribbing on the curler pieces.
    Enlarge picture showing where to trim off ribbing

    17. Take your super glue and and lay them opposite each other.
    Dab the two parts to each other as shown in the photo.
    Enlarge picture showing where to glue the two parts

    18. Roller pieces after gluing.
    Enlarge picture showing parts after gluing

    19. Paint your rack anyway you like. I use black matte model paint for that wrought iron effect.
    If you prefer you might use white or metallic paint.
    Enlarge picture showing painted roller dish rack

    20. Here you have a 1/12 scale kitchen dish rack!
    Enlarge picture showing completed 1/12 scale kitchen dish rack
    Woman of short-lived passions

  4. #24
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Learn To Make A Dolls
    House Dolls Trunk
    with CDHM Artisan
    Debbie Dixon-Paver



    Tools and Materials Needed:
    • Framing Mount Board: 1.5mm (0.05") Thick: Cut Into The Following Sized Pieces:
      - 2 Pieces 29mm x 43mm (1.14" x 1.69")
      - 4 Pieces 43mm x 13mm (1.69" x ½")
      - 4 Pieces 29mm x 14.5mm (1.14" x 0.57")
      - NOTE [SIZE=1.5]
      Mount board or matboard in the picture framing industry, is a thin, flat piece of
      paper-based material included within a picture frame, which serves as additional
      decoration and separates the art from the glass. It comes in many different colours
      on one side, but is white on the other side. The one I have used is 1.5mm thick.
      Should you find one that is 2mm thick, then change the 14.5mm measurement to 15mm.)[/SIZE]
    • Wallpaper: Mini-Print: (Avoid Stripes And Borders)
    • Scrapbooking Card: Leatherette Type Paper In Colour Of Your Choice
    • Card: Thin Brown: (similar Thickness To Manilla Card)
    • Foil Paper: Gold: (slightly Heavier Than Regular Aluminium Foil)
    • Cotton Or Polycotton Fabric: 10mm x 70mm (0.39" x 2.75"): Fraychecked Around The Edges
    • 64 Gold Studs (or Sequin Centres)
    • Glue Stick
    • Tacky Glue: In A Glue-Syringe
    • Tools
      - Craft knife
      - Cutting mat
      - Ruler: Metal Type
      - Pencil
      - Ruler: Regular Wooden Type
      - Scissors
      - Toothpicks
    • All paper used during this tutorial is "A4" in size








    Close-up image of materials needed

    Enlarge picture of basic supply requirements










    1. Start by cutting your mount board into ten pieces of the following sizes:
    - Two (2) pieces cut to 29mm x 43mm (1.14" x 1.69")
    - Four (4) pieces cut to 43mm x 13mm (1.69" x ½")
    - Four (4) pieces cut to 29mm x 14.5mm (1.14" x 0.57")
    Set aside.

    Enlarge picture showing sizes to cut the mat board

    2. Take up your piece of patterned wallpaper and flip it over to the back side.

    Enlarge picture showing where to start with the wallpaper

    3. Using your glue stick, paste your 10 pieces of mount board onto the wrong side of your patterned wallpaper. Leave at least a 15mm (½"-¾") gap between pieces.

    Enlarge picture showing where to glue the mount board to the wallpaper

    4. Using a pencil, label your mount board pieces like this: A1, A2, A3, A4, and A5 (reference the image).

    Enlarge picture showing how to mark the first part of the mount board

    TIP

    Label the pieces EXACTLY as I have, not just randomly, or you'll have a problem if you're using a patterned wallpaper that must keep the pattern in the same direction.






    5. The right side is to be labeled like this: B1, B2, B3, B4 and B5

    Enlarge picture showing how to mark the mount board

    6. Using a craft knife on a cutting mat or a small pair of scissors, cut out your pieces as shown, leaving 1cm (1/3") of your wallpaper sticking out beyond the board as shown on 4 of the 5 pieces of your A-side.

    Enlarge picture showing how to cut the pieces marked A

    7. Then repeat for side marked B.

    Enlarge picture showing how to cut the pieces marked B

    8. Take the 8 pieces that have wallpaper extending from them and use your glue stick to glue these extended bits onto the mount board. (Pieces A2, A3, A4, A5 and B2, B3, B4 and B5.)

    When you glue down the wallpaper it will probably cover the "labels" which you marked onto your pieces earlie; just write them again as they certainly help when it comes to assembling the trunk.

    Enlarge picture showing the gluing of wallpaper edges on the A parts

    9. Your ten pieces should now look something like this.

    Enlarge picture showing progress so far

    10. Pick up pieces A1 and A2. Using a glue syringe full of tacky glue, or a toothpick, run a line of glue along the top, narrow edge of piece A1 and push piece A2 up against it and hold. (Important: Do not put A2 onto A1 - it butts up against it).

    Enlarge picture assembling A1 and A2 together

    TIP

    If you have printed your own wallpaper, don't use too much glue, otherwise the ink on the paper will run.






    11. While that is drying, pick up pieces B1 and B2 and repeat the previous step. Glue B1 up against B2.

    Enlarge picture assembling B1 and B2 together

    12. Next, put a line of tacky glue along the rough, long side of A3 NOT the long edge that has wallpaper folded over it, the other long edge, and also along one short edge and glue it on top of A1 as shown in the image.

    Enlarge picture showing where to glue the third piece

    13. Now repeat the previous step and put a line of tacky glue along the rough, uncovered edge of B3 and glue it onto B1, so that it butts up to B2. Your two sides of the trunk should now look something as shown in the image.

    Enlarge picture showing where to attach B3 to B1

    14. Next, use your tacky glue to attach A4 onto A1, so that it butts up to A2, as shown in the image.

    Enlarge picture showing the assembling of A4 to A1

    15. Next, glue B4 onto B1 so that it pushes up against B2. Your two sides should now look like this.

    Enlarge picture showing progress so far

    16. Glue piece A5 against A1, butting up to A3 and A4 like this.

    Enlarge picture showing the joining of A5 to A1

    17. Finally glue B5 against B1, butting up against B3 and B4. Your two sides should look something like this.

    Enlarge picture showing where to glue the two parts

    18. Now place the two sides A and B so that their openings face each other and they are almost touching about 1mm (0.039") apart.

    Enlarge picture showing the two sides A and B facing each other

    19. Take your strip of white cotton fabric, place it onto the length of the trunk and mark off where to cut it. Then use your glue stick to paste this cotton strip down, joining the two sides of the trunk together.

    Enlarge picture showing where to join the two sides

    20. Put your trunk aside for the cotton strip to stick properly and do the following: Take your brownish-coloured card, put it onto a cutting mat and then use a craft knife and metal ruler to cut about six 3mm (0.118") strips from this card.

    Enlarge picture showing size to cut the brown card

    21. From the same brown card, measure a 3mm (0.118") strip, but instead of cutting it, use a pin or embroidery needle to gently score against the ruler.

    Enlarge picture showing where to score the brown card

    22. Then, 3mm (0.118") from that scored line, cut with your ruler and craft knife again. You will have a 6mm (0.24") strip that has been gently scored down the centre, so that it can be folded perfectly in half.

    Enlarge picture showing where to cut and score the brown card

    23. Cut 3 more of these strips that are scored down the centre, so that you have 4 in total.

    Enlarge picture showing how to repeat Steps 22-23

    TIP

    Now you will be working on just one side of the trunk only. This will complete that side. The other side is identical. You will need to repeat the process on the opposite side afterwards.






    24. Take your "faux leather" paper or scrapbook card, turn it over to the wrong side and place your trunk down on it in one corner. Draw around the trunk with a pencil.

    Enlarge picture showing where to draw the outline

    25. Use your craft knife to cut inside of your pencil lines. Check your cut piece against the trunk for size. Now paste the cut piece onto the trunk using your glue stick. It must not hang over the edges, rather let it be 1mm (0.039") or so smaller.

    Enlarge picture showing the glued piece onto the trunk

    26. Now cut a strip from this same paper/card about 13mm (½") wide by the length of the paper.

    Enlarge picture showing size of strip to cut

    27. Use this strip to cut off 4 pieces which you need to glue to the remaining 4 sides of A (A2, A3, A4 and A5).

    Enlarge picture showing four additional strips

    TIP

    Don't worry about little gaps of mount board showing, these will be covered in later steps.






    28. Take a strip of the 3mm (0.118") brown card that you previously cut. Now glue and place along the 4 edges of 'A' closest to 'B', as shown in image.

    Enlarge picture showing the four strip cuts

    29. Next, use your scored strip to do the very same thing, but on the outer edges of side 'A'. Cut 2 pieces to cover your long outer edges of 'A'. Glue on with tacky glue.

    Enlarge picture showing the four scored strip cuts

    30. The next two pieces need to be cut from the folded brown strips once again. You'll need to make little cut outs for a snug fit when gluing, as shown in the image.

    Enlarge picture showing another cut strip

    31. After measuring, cut the strip. It should look as shown in the image.

    Enlarge picture showing the cut strip

    32. Glue this piece on, then repeat Steps 30, 31 and 32 on the bottom side of 'A' until your trunk looks as shown in the image.

    Enlarge picture showing the glued strip on the trunk

    33. Use the same folded/scored strips to finish off the remaining 4 very short edges left on the 'A' piece. Measure, cut and glue; reference the image for how it should appear at this stage.

    Enlarge picture showing where to glue the short edge strips

    34. Use your ruler and a pencil to divide your trunk into thirds across its length. (Lines are about 15mm (0.594") apart. I've used a white gel pen where you would draw your lines with the pencil.

    Enlarge picture showing the trunk measured into thirds

    TIP

    Before starting this next step, note to not glue a brown strip onto a brown strip, only between.






    35. Take another of your 3mm (0.118") brown card strips and use it to cut and paste pieces that cover wherever my white lines are on the navy blue.

    Enlarge picture showing how to cover any remaining areas

    36. Another view of how to glue the brown strips over the lines.

    Enlarge picture showing a different view

    37. Now, using the gold metallic paper, preferably on a cutting mat marked in centimetres, score a piece of the gold paper into 1cm (0.39") blocks with a pin. Have at least 16 blocks.

    Enlarge picture showing how to score the gold metallic paper

    38. Then score lines diagonally through the blocks to form perfect crosses.

    Enlarge picture showing how to score lines diagonally

    39. Carefully cut 4 of these gold blocks out.

    Enlarge picture showing the four cut diamond blocks

    40. Then cut these gold blocks diagonally across the centre so that you have 8 triangular "halves", as shown.

    Enlarge picture showing the triangular halves

    41. Fold the gold triangles carefully on the scored line, then using your tacky glue, paste 4 of these on the 4 corners of side A of your trunk closest to side B. (The other 4 gold triangles will be used on side B later, so put them aside).

    Enlarge picture showing where to fold the triangle blocks

    42. Take 8 more gold squares (4 of these will be used on side 'B' of the trunk later). Carefully cut a quarter section out of each square (see image for comparison). I find that a small sharp pair of scissors works best here.

    Enlarge picture showing where to cut out the ¼ section

    43. This next step requires the utmost patience. First pick up a gold square that has had a quarter section cut out. On the scored lines gently bend it, put tacky glue on and paste over the 4 outer corners of side 'A'.

    Enlarge picture showing how to apply the corners

    44. Next, cut a 3mm (0.118") strip of gold paper. From the strip cut off 3mm (0.118") squares and glue two on the front of the trunk like this.

    Enlarge picture showing additional gold applications

    45. Then paste (glue) two of the gold blocks on the back, as shown.

    Enlarge picture showing additional gold adornments

    46. Use more of the 3mm (0.118") gold strips to cut off pieces about 7-8mm (apprx ¼") in length, which are folded and glued onto the trunk to look like this. Reference the image for additional details.

    Enlarge picture showing even more gold adornments applied to the trunk

    47. Finally, glue gold studs or sequin centres onto your gold papered bits if required, to look like the trunk in the image.

    Enlarge picture showing application of the gold studs

    48. Repeat from Step 20 through to Step 43 to finish off side 'B' of your trunk. Your trunk is now completed and should look like the image.

    Enlarge picture showing completed trunk on one side

    49. Your trunk is complete. Now you need to make something to put inside your trunk.

    Enlarge picture showing completed trunk





    Now these are just plain cute!
    Lần sửa cuối bởi obaasan, ngày 18-06-2012 lúc 05:16 PM.
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Learn To Make A
    1:12 Spooky Witch Broom
    with Jody Raines


    Tools and Materials Needed:
    • Rustic Broom or Cinnamon Broom: Small 4" (10cm)
    • Polymer Clay : Either Brown Or Cream Colored
    • Paint Brush : Soft Type (For Brushing Powder Pigments)
    • Florist Wire : Sturdy Fabric-Wrapped Type: 6" (15.24cm) Length
    • Glue: White Type
    • Thread: Thick Brown
    • Plate or Board (To Use For the Clay)
    • Moist Wipes (For Your Hands)
    • Chalk Pastel
      - Black
      - Dark Brown
    • Tools
      - Flat Edged Tool
      - Scissors: Craft Style
      - Stylus
      - Toothpick
      - Wire Cutters
    • Optional Items
      - Charms
      - Gold Chain
      - Metallic Pearl Ex Powder In Copper








    Close-up image of materials needed

    Enlarge picture of basic supply requirements
    Close-up image of materials needed

    Enlarge picture of additional supplies requirements










    1. Start by removing the commercially purchased broom. Separate the stick from the broom base and discard the stick.

    Enlarge picture showing the separation of the stick from the broom base

    2. Retrieve the cloth covered floral wire and measure out approximately 5-6" (12.7cm-15.24cm).

    Enlarge picture showing length of cut floral wire

    3. Once the length is measured, go ahead and cut the length with wire cutters. Set aside.

    Enlarge picture showing use of wire cutters

    4. Take a fairly large lump of the polymer clay and go ahead an condition the clay. This will be the handle.

    Enlarge picture showing polymer clay

    5. Continue to roll and soften the clay with your hands.

    Enlarge picture showing polymer clay

    6. Once the clay is conditioned, roll the clay into a snake shape, the length of the wire and about ¼" (6.35mm) in circumference.

    Enlarge picture showing what shape to form

    TIP

    Remember to bend and shape your wire a bit so that it isn't perfectly straight.






    7. Press the clay against the wire and begin to shape and/or bend it around the wire.

    Enlarge picture showing how to form the broom handle

    8. Completely wrap the wire using the polymer clay, rolling the entire length in your hands. Pinch the snake shaped handle of clay, enclosing the wire fully.

    Enlarge picture showing the clay handle shape

    9. As you continue shaping the handle, remove any excess clay along the length of the wire.

    Enlarge picture showing where to remove excess clay

    10. If the length becomes too straight or a shape you do not desire, just roll to the desired shape.

    Enlarge picture showing how to refine the shape

    11. This image shows how you can gently pull the polymer clay along the length of the broom to thin it down, if it's too thick after rolling.

    Enlarge picture showing how to thin the clay

    12. Gently pull the clay around the sharp end of the wire and round it off so that the wire isn't exposed.

    Enlarge picture showing process to cover the end of the wire

    COMMENT

    I imagine a witch's broom to be worn and smoothed out by constant use and the aerodynamics of flying into the night wind would naturally round and weather the end!!






    13. Using a toothpick or any sharp edged tool, create lines along the length of the broom handle randomly. Some long slashes, some short -- this gives the effect of aged wood.

    Enlarge picture showing where how to age the handle

    14. Next, you will need a flat edged tool for this step. Using the tool, make small random indentations along the length of the polymer clay to simulate woodgrain.

    Enlarge picture showing how to simulate woodgrain

    15. Now you are ready to highlight and add depth to the clay. So gather your artist pastels. I am using Grumbacher's Soft Pastels. Select burnt sienna and a dark brown stick. Rub both on a piece of scrap paper to create a powder.

    Enlarge picture showing the artist pastel chalks

    TIP

    Before the next step, consider how you want to highlight your broomstick. Most broomsticks though are dark and weathered. For a subtle shimmer, lightly dab Pearl Ex copper powder along the handle, if desired. Don't overdo it -- just a little will add a bit of life. My broom will probably be mounted on the wall lengthwise so needs a bit of shimmer to make it stand out.






    16. With a soft artist's brush, brush the powder along the unbaked polymer clay broom handle length, until it is shaded to your satisfaction.

    Enlarge picture showing where to use the artist pastel chalks

    BAKING

    After you have shaded and highlighted your polymer clay, bake the broomstick according to the manufacturers recommendatons. I bake mine at around 260ºF for 12-15 minutes, but ovens vary as do manufacturers recommendatons.






    17. While the broomstick is baking, take the opportunity to clean up your hands with baby wipes. Just a little helpful step that I'm sure most of you know.

    Enlarge picture showing the baby wipes

    18. Take the bristled broom and squeeze a dab of white glue in the hole left from removing the commercial handle.

    Enlarge picture showing the two sides A and B facing each other

    TIP

    If you could not find the commercial broom, you will need to make a bristle bundle to form the lower part of the broom. You can use a real broom and cut off bristles or you can use twigs. For either option, you will need to bind a large bunch of twigs or bristles around the clay handle with bristles.

    You will need about 2" (5.08cm) of bristles or twigs. Cut the length to your preference. Glue around the handle before trying to apply the bristles or twigs. Then shape the bristles or twigs around the handle. You can bind it with brown embroidery floss. Then you can cover the floss with raffia or another natural fiber. Be sure to bind them securely and add more bristles or twigs if it looks skimpy.

    Remember that the broom will look circular rather than flat, like the ones you would find at a regular store.






    19. After the handle has cooled, if you are using the commercial broom, fill the hole with glue. Then push the hardened and cooled handle into the broom hole about 1/3" (8.46mm) way in and allow to dry.

    Enlarge picture showing how to join the handle with the bristle bottom

    20. With craft scissors, cut the end of the broom down tapering it around the center and, to make it look even more worn and weathered. Carefully burn the ends with a match, blowing it out quickly. Have a small bowl of water ready to put your match in and in case things get out of hand!!

    Enlarge picture showing how to age the bristles with a match

    21. You have a rustic, weathered, slightly singed witch's broom that any self-respecting witch would be proud of mount.

    Enlarge picture showing the completed witch broom

    22. Alternative Example #1

    Here is one version with the end tapered, the handle slightly bent and the broom singed.

    Enlarge picture showing alternative example #1

    23. Alternative Example #2

    This image shows the end tapered but not burned as an example if you prefer not to play with fire.

    Enlarge picture showing alternative example #2

    24. Alternative Example #3

    Here are two different examples; one slightly longer with a bushier broom. And that's it. Thanks for tuning in. One day maybe I'll be capable of doing something a bit more challenging!

    Enlarge picture showing alternative example #3
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Learn To Make A
    1:12 Carved Lamb on Platter
    with Linda Cummings


    Tools and Materials Needed:
    • Polymer Clay - Fimo Brand
      - #23 Bordeaux
      - #77 Chocolate
      - #17 Ochre
      - #14 translucent
      - #00 White
    • Artist Pastel Chalks
      - Brown
      - Ochre
      - Terracotta
    • Foil
    • Glue: PVA
    • Paintbrush - Soft
    • Pin: Straight Type
    • Plate or Platter for Lamb
    • Varnish: Gloss
    • Tile To Work On
    • Baking Tray Covered In Foil
    • Tools
      - Pointed Dental Tool
      - Single Sided Blade
      - Tweezers
      - X-acto Knife








    Close-up image of materials needed

    Enlarge picture of material requirements









    COMMENT

    Make sure your oven is turned on to 265°F/130°C before we start!







    1. First we will make up the mixes you will need for your leg of lamb.

    Enlarge picture showing the materials that you need to begin

    2. Basic Red Meat Mix
    Take a ½” (1.27cm) ball of Bordeaux red, ¾” (1.91cm) ball of brown and ¾” (1.91cm) translucent. Combine all three colors and mix well. You can use your pasta machine to hurry this process, otherwise knead well! Once completed, set aside.

    Enlarge picture showing how to make the red meat mix

    TIP

    Wash Your Hands!! Otherwise, the red clay will shade the lighter mixes pink.






    3. Ham Pink Mix
    Now take 2-parts white, 2-parts translucent, 1-part brown, ½ part bordeaux then mix together well.

    Enlarge picture showing how to make the pink meat mix

    TIP

    If the colour is too dark add a bit more white until you are happy! Then wash your hands again.


    4. Fat Mix
    Take the translucent, white and ochre clays in ratio of ¾ translucent, ¼ white and a small amount of ochre. Mix well. Don’t worry if all the ochre doesn’t completely combine, as the visible surface will be covered with pastels and the bones will be appear more realistic!

    Enlarge picture showing how to make the fat mix

    5. Roll out the mixture.

    Enlarge picture showing the rolled out clay

    6. Now we need to make the central bone since this needs to bake while we make up the meat!
    Begin by cutting a small amount from your red meat mixture to use as the centre (marrow) of the bone. Cut a piece 2½ times larger than the fat mix. Roll the red mix into a fat log, then roll out with a roller or pasta machine (set on highest setting). Your fat mixture should cover the log.

    Enlarge picture showing how to make the central bone

    7. Trim at the join so there is no overlapping then check that you do not have air bubbles in the roll.

    Enlarge picture showing how to join the two pieces

    8. Now roll the log between your fingers to produce a thin log. You may find it easier to keep cutting the log, if it becomes unmanageable in length!

    Enlarge picture showing how to make the cane shape

    9. Cut 1-piece 1cm (a little less than a ½") in length and 2 smaller lengths, 2-3mm (0.07"-0.12"). Carefully roll one end to a point. Use your pin to make a hole in the non-pointed ends. Carefully transfer the rolls to your kitchen covered baking dish and bake for 10 minutes.

    Enlarge picture showing the cut lengths

    10. While the cane rolls are baking, take your red meat mix and cut about the same amount from your red meat mixture.

    Enlarge picture showing how to create the red meat mixture

    TIP

    Pasta machines make mixing a whole lot quicker and if your clay is old sometimes adding "quickmix" can help to soften it!






    11. Marble the mixture together by rolling, then folding, then rolling again until the colours are lightly marbled. Shape into a short, fat log about ½" (1.27cm) in diameter.

    Enlarge picture showing the marbling effect

    12. Roll out your fat mix (setting 4-5 on your pasta machine) and pull gently to thin slightly. Cover the marbled mix with the fat mixture, as before to butt join the two pieces. Take your red mix and repeat the process.

    Enlarge picture showing the wrapped meat mix

    TIP

    Again, wash your hands after rolling the red meat mixture into a log!






    13. Your meat log is ready to lengthen and roll!

    Enlarge picture showing rolled clay

    14. Lengthen and thin your log by rolling. Then cut the log into equal lengths.

    Enlarge picture showing the cut lengths

    15. Now you need to begin pressing the logs together in as realistic a combination as you can!

    Enlarge picture showing how to press the lengths together

    16. Your pressed logs should look something like this.

    Enlarge picture showing progress so far

    17. Now you need to add the fat mix (rolled through pasta maker, setting 3) around the whole log.
    You don't need to be too careful here, as I tend to tear and pull when I add this fat layer to achieve differing thicknesses.

    Enlarge picture showing how to add the fat mix

    18. Squeezing and pulling from the middle to the outer ends, lengthen the cane until it is around 10-12mm (½") thick. If you haven't taken your 'bones' out of the oven, do so now!

    Enlarge picture showing how to lengthen the cane

    COMMENT

    You will have enough of the cane for more than one joint, if you store it in a plastic bag, it should keep indefinitely!






    19. Now you need to shape the leg. First cut a length from your meat cane, approx 25mm–30mm (1"-1¼") in length. Shape one end to a round point; moulding until you have a leg of lamb shape you are happy with.

    Enlarge picture showing how to shape the leg

    20. With a dental tool or pin, make a central hole in the longest of the three (3) bones. Then make two (2) holes in the thin end for the other two bones.

    Enlarge picture showing where to make the holes

    21. Dot the ends of the cooked bones with glue, insert the longer bone into the hole you made in the step above. Push the bone into the hole, then push the two smaller bones in the thin end. Tweezers are useful at this point to hold the bones! With the crumpled foil texture the fat surface of the joint until you have an effect you are happy with.

    Enlarge picture showing how to bone and texture

    22. Holding your joint very lightly, take your pin and use it to define the edges between the meat and fat. Gently pull the fat away from the meat. Then do the same with fat running through the meat.

    Enlarge picture showing where to texture the meat edges

    23. Next, use the pin to lightly mark diagonal lines across the meat areas and then diagonally in the opposite direction to simulate the fibres.

    Enlarge picture showing additional texturing

    24. Check the texture of the fat surface and if necessary, texture the surface a little more.

    Enlarge picture showing where to texture a bit more

    25. Colouring and Adding Texture
    Check the texture of the fat surface and if necessary, texture the surface a little more. Retrieve your artist chalks, brush, and x-acto knife. Scrape ochre, brown and a bit of golden brown into separate piles of powder.

    Enlarge picture showing how to use artist chalks

    26. Starting with the ochre, lightly brush the colour over the surface of the lamb. Take care not to get any on the 'meat' face of the joint.

    Enlarge picture showing where to shade with chalks

    27. Repeat the step, except using the brown powder. Carefully build up the colour, without being too heavy handed with the colour. If desired, you can add a touch of the golden brown powder.

    Enlarge picture showing where to shade with chalks

    28. You now have a nicely roasted leg of lamb. Here you have the option of carving the shank or not. If you decide to not carve it, then bake for 30 minutes or according to the manufacturer's direction.

    Enlarge picture showing where to carve

    TIP

    Test your leg of lamb on the platter you’ve chosen to display the leg on before baking. Also, keep in mind that if you are adding vegetables, you will need space as well.






    29. Now it's time to slice your joint!
    Take your single sided blade and holding the joint very lightly, so as to not squish the shape, make a slanted cut (towards the front) at about 5-6mm (give or take ¼") up the joint.

    Enlarge picture showing the carving

    TIP

    You may find it easier to texture and slice your leg of lamb, if you glue it into place on the plate first, then let it set.






    30. Then make another cut, carefully to the bone, in front of the first cut to loosen a thin slice. Using your dental pick, gently ease the slice away from the joint. Set to one side. Continue cutting two or three more thin slices. Make sure to expose the bone and ease away. Set aside as before. Pick out the detail on the now exposed cut surfaces.

    Enlarge picture showing where to slice the lamb

    31. Take the cut slices and flatten them on the tile with your finger. Texture the pieces as before with your straight pin.

    Enlarge picture showing how to texture the slices

    32. After you have flattened and thinned the cut slices, texture the surface as before with your pin. When satisfied with the pieces, ease the pieces off of the tile using your blade.

    Enlarge picture showing how to texture the slices

    33. Texture the inside pieces of the leg with your pin.

    Enlarge picture showing how to texture the inside pieces

    34. The slices are now ready to arrange around your joint on the platter.

    Enlarge picture showing arrangement of leg joint and slices

    35. Bake your leg of lamb & the slices for approximately 30-minutes according to the manufacturer's recommendation. After baking and cooling, garnish with vegetables of your choice!!

    Enlarge picture showing garnished leg of lamb
    Woman of short-lived passions

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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Lesson by Carol Jones




    Supplies Paper Egg carton, Tacky Glue, Dk. Grey and Lt. Grey Paint, Stiff brush, paper towel;
    Chalks, optional



    Preamble The instructions are for the outside of a room box, to look like a stump of a tree in real life. To use this method on a 1:12 tree, the egg carton pieces would have to be scaled down accordingly.
    It is suggested that pictures of tree bark be in front of you so that you can see how the bark is in real life. On most trees, the bark is actually grey! On some trees, the bark will not be as pronounced as on others, and some actually have a horizontal look rather than vertical.
    The tree in this sample is taking artistic license with a Garry Oak tree.
    The stump was made by folding and gluing foam core to a base, giving it stability by pinning underneath.



    Paint the outside of your box with a deep gray.



    Use paper egg carton, not plastic. Egg cartons do come in different colours. I used grey. Cut and tear into strips






    If you have openings for windows, do these first by gluing strips around the window following the contour, keeping the bumpy side up.



    Glue pieces to the outside, staggering them. I could have overlapped some of them more, but do let the grey underneath show. Although the bark is uniform on a real tree, visually, for our purposes it looks better if bigger pieces are kept nearer the bottom.






    Pour lt. grey, dark grey, brown, black (or colours of your choice) on your palette.






    Using a stiff brush, load colour on to it, and then brush off excess paint on paper towel until very little colour shows. Scrub this on to your egg carton. Keep the bottom a bit darker than the rest.






    If you wish, add landscaping moss in some of the crevices, but don’t over-do it. When you have completed your project, use a clear matte spray to seal everything.







    Lần sửa cuối bởi obaasan, ngày 02-07-2012 lúc 09:47 PM.
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Before beginning to paint, the pieces must first be prepared.



    STEP 1:

    Using an Exacto knife or a blade, remove any flashings. These are the ‘extra’ bits which may appear along the edges of your piece.

    STEP 2:
    All the pieces of plastic must be washed to remove the surface residue so that it will accept the paint. This is true for any type of paint otherwise the surface will be too slick. You can use Windex, Fantastic or just plain soap at water.

    Place your items in a bowl of soapy water, and gently scrub.

    Step 3:

    Allow the pieces to air dry on a paper towel

    The paints which were chosen are water-based, only for ease in cleaning up and because some people have allergies or are sensitive to oil based and other paints. There are many manufacturers of water-based plastic paints, such as Polly Scale, Model Master, etc. The other paints, not water-based, do work equally well, and if you don’t have an aversion to them, please try them out. Regular acrylics, like the type purchased at Craft stores, do not work well. Please read the labels or ask a store clerk if the paint you have chosen will work on plastics. Railroad shops are a good source for paints which work on plastic and there are many different types, so ask them for assistance.

    Decoration
    As well as painting, your pieces can further be decorated using Flocking and Accent paints.
    Flocking is a very fine masses of fibres or ‘fuzz’, which comes in many different colours. Flocking can be obtained from stores which sell stamping supplies, some miniature shops, ceramic shops and ebay. If you’ve never seen it before, use Google to look it up. It gives a fine velvet texture to items.

    Accent paints are those which leave a raised surface, or even using acrylics in small amounts.

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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Lesson By Carol Jones

    Supplies:Acrylic Paint in various brown colours
    (I used Americana Light Cinnamon, Delta Toffee Brown, Craft Smart Espresso
    and American Raw Umber)
    DecoArt Staining Antiquing Medium (Turns Acrylics into a stain)
    Aleene’s Quick Dry Tacky Glue
    Sandpaper
    Steel Wool
    Tack Cloth
    Green or blue Painter’s tape
    Shellac & Methyl Hydrate (or your choice of primer) (optional)
    Matte Sealer in either Spray or Brush-On
    Brushes - Soft brush and Stiff Bristle

    step 1
    -To achieve a nice smooth finish (unless you want to age the building) it’s best to give a good basis for your paint job.
    THIS Technique USES ONLY WATER-BASED PRODUCTS.
    -Give a sanding to your wood, and finish sanding with steel wool and then wiping all your pieces with a tack cloth.

    step 2
    -Give all pieces a prep coat of Shellac MIXED half and half with Methyl Hydrate. DO NOT USE FULL STRENGTH. This gives a nice finish to apply the acrylics. It is not absolutely necessary to do this and if you want to skip this step, it will be okay. This is just something I personally do.

    step 3
    Using Acrylic paints of your choice, paint the building. I used Americana Light Cinnamon for the darker colour, and Toffee Brown for the medium colour. Because I had used the Shellac prep coat, I did not have to paint the smaller pieces the lighter colour, but just left them natural. IF you did not use the prep coat, you should seal the areas you are leaving ‘natural’.
    ***To see how I finished the base, go to step 9

    step 4
    Use either a Matte Spray or a Matte Brush on sealer and apply two coats.

    step 5
    To bring all these brown colours together, the pieces now need to be antiqued. Deco Art Staining Antiquing Medium turns acrylics into a stain. The Medium is mixed half and half with an acrylic. I chose Raw Umber as it is darker than the other colours I used and would serve to go into cracks and crevices and bring everything together.
    It took approximately ½ container of each to finish the store.
    Use a small jar to mix the Medium and your choice of antiquing colour, half-and-half.

    step 6 and step 7
    These steps have been combined because you will be doing Step 6 for a small area, and then Step 7…then going back to Step 6. This is water-based and virtually no smell.
    With a brush, apply your Medium/Acrylic to your pieces. Work on a small area at a time, but you do have about 5 minutes before it dries. Then with a stiff brush, press and drag your brush along the wood, leaving ‘streaks of woodgrain’.
    If you find that your paint has dried, or there’s something you don’t quite like, take a damp sponge and wipe it off and start again! It’s very easy to work with and very forgiving.


    step 8
    Let your piece dry thoroughly, and then again use a Matte Sealer, spray or brush-on, giving two light coats.

    step 9
    To paint the base of the store, first trial fit your walls to see where it meets on the base and draw a pencil line. Then using colour of your choice, paint the border and edges. I used Espresso, quite a dark brown, but Raw Umber could have been used also. The decision is yours.
    If you are painting the walls, then do so at this time. I chose a warm yellow. Finish anything you want painted and then if you wish, wallpaper.

    step 10
    Apply flooring of your choice. I used a wallpaper flooring.

    step 11
    Putting in the windows…remove the brown paper backing from the window. Apply glue to the frame area and again, I used Quick Dry Tacky Glue, although other glues can work equally as well. Then remove the film from the opposite side of the window and press into place.

    step 12
    To put the store together, apply glue to your pieces and assemble as indicated on the following link. (LINK)
    Applying Siding
    Woman of short-lived passions

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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    GARDEN STEPS
    created with "BuFoam" Builder's Foam

    Supply
    Builder's Foam 2" thickness
    Black & White Gesso
    X-Acto Saw
    X-Acto Knife
    Ceramcoat Quaker Grey paint
    Small piece of dense foam
    Ground Foam .... AMSI
    White Glue
    Hair Dryer
    Cutting the foam is best done with a saw to create a rough texture. Saw slowly otherwise the foam may tear. An X-Acto knife carves and creates the rock shapes and layers. I have not found a good use for the smooth sides other than the bottom of objects created with "BuFoam".

    Step 1
    Mix Black & White Gesso to desired shade of dark grey and with a stiff brush apply.

    For quick drying fasten steps with pins to a larger section of foam, or you will be chasing wet steps once the stream of hot air from the hair dryer hits !

    Step 2
    Quaker Grey Acrylic paint by Ceramcoat is dabbed on steps using a small amount of paint, allowing the darker Gesso grey to show through. For this a dense sponge is best. I have found them to be pink in color versus the black or yellow sponge.

    Step 3
    Direct any clear drying white glue into the areas you wish moss and drop generous pinches of ground foam and I believe it is by AMSI. Seems I didn't save the packaging once I dumped the very fine foam into a more suitable container. Tap off excess foam back into the container.

    The final step is to admire your rock creation.
    Woman of short-lived passions

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