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Chủ đề: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

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  1. #31
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Introduction
    Although this technique was developed for 1/144th landscaping, it could be used for seedling plants or small window sill plants in bigger scales. Just use your imagination and have fun!
    One thing very helpful is to place a small amount of landscaping material in the various compartments of those plastic boxes usually used for crafts. Choose the colours you would like and then you have everything at your fingertips. Purchase landscaping material from a miniature shop or a railroad shop. Choose landscaping which is quite fine.
    The size of the bead will determine the size of the entire plant.

    Supplies
    -toothpicks
    -landscaping material
    -Nippers
    -Quick Grab Glue (Aleene’s Quick Grab was used, but any THICK glue would work.
    If you don’t want to make an extra purchase, then leave white glue out on a tile until
    it thickens)
    -Patience and imagination!

    Step 1
    Firmly place a bead on the end of a toothpick, jamming it down as far as it will go down.

    STEP 2
    Dip the end of the toothpick, just up to the bead, into thickened glue. Be generous and leave a blob of glue at the end.

    Step 3
    Dip toothpick into green landscaping material of your choice, but only the end, just up to the top of the bead.

    Step 4
    Using your fingers, gently shape the plant, using your fingers. Set this aside to dry THOROGHLY.
    Make several of these…it can be addictive!

    Step 5
    Make sure that your plant is completely dry before proceeding to this step.
    Using a clean toothpick, dip into the glue and then put dots of glue all over the greenery on your toothpick

    Step 6
    Dip the dotted plant into a colour of your choice - red, yellow, blue, purple…whatever you want.
    Blow off any excess material.

    Step 7
    At this point, you can leave the bead as is, or if you wish, you can paint it using acrylic or plastic paint. You can apply this colour with a toothpick, as the bead is so small, or if you prefer, use a brush.

    Step 8
    Once you are happy with the final result, CAREFULLY nip the end of the toothpick, flush with the bead.

    Step 9
    Ta-Da! You’ve finished your plant. Different types of greenery and different colours of landscape will give you a large variety of different types of plants.

    Step 10
    To make trees, simply eliminate the bead, and dip the toothpick as far into the glue as you want for the size of the trees. Experiment and you will see that as you use different types of materials, each tree will be unique.

    Step 11
    You can plant the little pots directly into the garden and cover the pots with landscaping material, or leave the pots showing. Plant a whole garden for a floral showpiece!


    Return to Classes Index
    Woman of short-lived passions

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  3. #33
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    ANTIQUING & AGING MDF ROOMBOX (Board & Batten)

    Room box (I used The Seaview Roombox, available from Victoria Miniland)

    22-24 wood strips 1/16” thick, ¼” wide, 23” long (vertical uprights) or your choice of size
    2 wood strips 1/8” thick, 3/8” wide, 23” long
    Corner molding - read Step #4 for further explanation
    Tack Cloth
    Brushes - soft and stiff
    Sandpaper
    Green painters tape (not masking tape)
    Hand held cutter, or a saw and mitre box
    Empty jars to make washes
    Acrylic stains - brown, black, grey, toffee, red wood, mossy green
    Rubber cement
    Rubber Cement Pick-up (eraser) available at Art Store
    Sponge
    Bleach - small amount
    Glue - Weldbond or Tacky Glue
    Pencil
    Xacto knife, Dremel Tool (optional)
    The Seaview was used for this technique to demonstrate how to antique MDF, which has a very hard surface. If you are using another room box made of a softer material, such as plywood, the surface can be scribed with a wire brush and otherwise distressed. Using the MDF, an illusion had to be created. There are many, many methods of aging wood, but I am sharing the technique I used on this particular piece. I chose a board and batten so that the smoothness of MDF would be ‘hidden’

    Step 1
    Put the kit together, using green painters tape, not masking tape. The Green painter’s tape doesn’t leave any glue residue, which could affect the washes if masking tape were used. Once the kit is together, think about the colours you would like for your room box. If you are in a quandary, I’d suggest you take a picture, print it out in black and white, and use coloured pencils to colour the various areas, just to give you an idea.

    Srep 2
    Decide on how wide and thick you would like the battens (the vertical strips) to be. Of course, if you wish to omit the battens, that is your choice! But it does help to break up the background of the MDF. The sizes used in this project are listed under supplies. Thicker and wider horizontal strips were used for around the bottom edge of the room box. My strips were placed 1” apart, and 22 strips were used.
    The type of wood used will make a difference to the colour of the wood once washes are applied. Try to make all the uprights the same type of wood.

    Step 3
    With your room box taped together, first cut the horizontal strips to the length needed to go around the building. Cut the side bottom pieces 1/32” longer, on the sides. If your strip is is thicker, use that measurement for the extra length. Cut the back bottom piece the exact size of the back of the building. This is so that there isn’t a gap where the sides and back meet. It’s not necessary to angle the boards in this case since this building is meant to be rustic. Tape the strips, top and bottom in place using Builder’s Tape. As mentioned, my bottom strip of wood is heavier…my choice. I wrote in pencil on the back of each horizontal strip, where that strip would go, left, right, etc.


    Step 4
    The back corners of the room box can be done two different ways. I happened to have a piece of cedar corner molding and decided to use that. However, if you wish, the wood strips used for the vertical uprights can be used by placing one flush with the corner on the back, and one flush with the corner on the side. The choice is yours.

    Step 5
    The uprights need to be cut. How many used will depend on how close you put them together. I believe that in ‘real life’ it should be 8” apart, which is ¾” apart. However, I chose to place them 1” apart. Isn’t it wonderful that in minis we can do what we want without fear of a building inspector? The ends of the strips should meet the horizontal strips which are taped in place. I taped them in place so I could decide how far apart I would like them. Make enough to go around the building.
    I chose to put the strips on the boards used for the fencing. If you choose to do something else, like brick, stone, etc, then skip this step. If you are using strips on the fencing boards, remember to do both sides. The horizontal strips used on this were not the heavier pieces, but the same size strip wood was used for the horizontal as well as the vertical.

    Step 5A
    The front of the building takes a bit of planning. Although perhaps not technically correct, I planned for visually pleasing. Place one long strip between the window and the door - this will be the only strip which goes from top to bottom. Then measure and cut the other strips, allowing 1” between the strips. Do this on either side of the long strip. Then measure the strips below the window so that they match the top ones, as if a line went straight through.

    Step 6
    It is always the subtle things which contribute to the over all look of aging, so don’t skip this step. Remove all the wood strips from the building. Write on the back of the horizontal pieces where they go.
    Each piece of stripping was sanded so that the top edges are rounded. (not the side which will be glued to the building). This gives it a worn look, where it’s weathered with age. Do this on EVERY strip, as well as on the trims around the window and door. It doesn’t matter if it’s uneven or a bit taken off more in one area than another, as this just shows more weathering.

    Step 7
    Using rough sandpaper, sand the building itself, going from top to bottom, bottom to top of the building. This will help the washes of paint to adhere, and if it leaves scratches, then this is good as it adds to the character. The important thing is to remember to go in one direction only - up and down. Sand everything you can.

    Step 8
    Using a tack cloth (purchased at hardware store), wipe down each piece of strip wood, and all parts of the building, removing the loose sawdust.

    Step 9
    Rather than paint on a solid colour, washes were used. A wash is colour diluted with water. In this step, a wash will be used on everything, covering all areas of the wood. The first wash was made with brown, grey and black acrylics put into a jar, about a tsp. of each colour, mixed, and then water added. This is a good time to use the small amounts you may have left over from other projects. You can use several shades of brown or grey…what you’re looking for is a muddy greyish colour.

    Step 10
    Before you apply any wash, please read this step through.
    When applying this wash to the bulding, DAMPEN WITH SPONGE FIRST, so that the colour doesn’t grab, and so that the wash will flow smoother easier.

    Step 10A
    With a brush, apply the wash FROM TOP TO BOTTOM. Allow the wash to streak or be uneven.
    Don’t forget to do the roof!

    Step 11
    To do the strip wood, use a damp sponge and run the strip through the sponge so that both back and front are dampened. If you don’t do this, the strips could warp. Wipe only 3 sticks at a time before applying the wash, so that the wood doesn’t dry out.

    Step 11A
    Lay the strips on a piece of plastic or wax paper making sure that you have the rounded sides up. (the edges which you had sanded). Damp sponge. Apply the wash. Turn the sticks side to side to make sure you have the wash on the sides of the strip wood.

    Step 12
    Pour a small amount of bleach into a glass. Use a soft brush and stroke one coat on top of each piece of strip wood. Don’t try and do the sides, just the top. This will lighten the wash a bit. Don’t try to be uniform, just give it one stroke.
    Do you notice how the wash affects different types of wood? The lighter wood I used was basswood and the darker wood is cedar.

    Step 13
    Apply the wash to the entire front, including window mullions and trims. If you change your mind about something and want to apply an acrylic afterwards in certain areas, this won’t be a problem. It is easier at this point to just cover everything rather than to try and go around windows and door.
    Remember to apply the wash going in the direction of the wood…in other words, for the window top and bottom, and trim on top of the building, stroke your brush horizontally, not vertically.

    Step 13
    Apply the wash to the entire front, including window mullions and trims. If you change your mind about something and want to apply an acrylic afterwards in certain areas, this won’t be a problem. It is easier at this point to just cover everything rather than to try and go around windows and door.
    Remember to apply the wash going in the direction of the wood…in other words, for the window top and bottom, and trim on top of the building, stroke your brush horizontally, not vertically.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  4. #34
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Lesson By Carol Jones

    Supplies:
    Individual siding lumber
    Corner molding
    Sandpaper
    Steel Wool
    Paint
    Brush
    Cutter or Mitre Box
    Wood Glue
    Green Painter’s Tape

    Step One
    Before beginning, please read through all the instructions.
    This was done on a room box, but the same principles apply to siding a house.
    Measure the area which will have siding. I used individual strips which were ½” wide and 24 inches long. Knowing the measurements you will be able to determine how many pieces you will need for your bulding. I used artistic license in doing my small room box, by using long strips right across the building. In the real world, there would be breaks in the siding, and they wouldn’t be in long unbroken strips. This leaves minimal wastage, as small pieces could be used.
    You will notice on the back of the siding there is a groove.

    STEP 2
    Take the time to sand all the pieces first. The easiest way to do this is to first make a sanding block by wrapping sandpaper around a block of wood. This will give you even pressure when sanding.
    When you have finished sanding with a sanding block, go over the pieces once again with fine steel wool. The extra effort will be worth it in the final finish

    Step 3
    You will start on one end of your building and work your way around. Measure the length you will need from corner to corner and mark this measurement on the grooved side of your siding.
    If you have a Cutter, it makes the job a wee bit easier, but using a mitre box and zono saw works well also. Of course, if you have a small cut-off saw, then it’s easier still!
    Lay your wood face down on the smooth side - the grooved side with your measurement will be up. After you cut your wood, give the ends a quick swipe over sandpaper.

    Step 4
    Using a good wood glue, I like to spread my glue with an old credit card which has been cut diagonally. However, a good stiff brush works also -keep water handy to wash out your brush so it doesn’t harden. With the credit card, clean it once in a while by running a wet paper towel over it.

    Step 5
    Starting at the Bottom edge of your building, glue the first strip of siding down. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you have this first strip even and square, so make sure that the surface on which you are working is nice and flat.
    Apply subsequent runs pushing the grooved part over the previous run.

    Step 6
    Using the green painter’s tape, fold it over the corners and perhaps in the center, using the tape to clamp down the siding until it dries. I like to use this tape because it can be removed easily and if you put it over dried painted surfaces, it doesn’t remove the paint.

    Step 7
    If you want to take the time, you can mitre the corners so that they fit exactly. In this case, I just butted them up to each other, but as you will see, it leaves a raw edge.
    To cover this edge a piece of angled wood, corner molding was applied to the corners. If you’re working on a house, this would fit right under the roof pieces and the top of it wouldn’t show.

    Step 8
    Since I was working on a room box, the top of the siding and corner molding did show, and I wanted to finish it off, so I took a very thin piece of wood, and cut it to fit at the very top.

    Step 9
    After the glue has dried, you can then paint your siding with your favourite colour! Apply 2 coats, sanding lightly in between coats. When the paint has dried, you can either leave it as is, or apply a sealer or for a slight sheen and sanding, crumple up a brown paper bag and sand down with that. If you’re doing a roombox, it’s now complete. For a house, see Step 10.

    STEP 10
    There are several methods for working around doors and windows in a house. You can put on your trims, and then butt up the siding; or you can apply the siding, and then put your trims over the top of this. If you choose the second method, you must take into consideration that the width of the windows will have to be a bit wider to accommodate this. You could also place a piece of strip wood between the window and the building. Each building requires some forethought. Here is a picture of a house which had the siding put right up to the windows.
    I have heard that some people go right over the windows with the siding, and then cut the window out. I don’t think this is necessary, but that’s my own personal opinion.
    If you have any further questions, don’t hesitate to contact Victoria Miniland and we’ll try and help you out.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  5. #35
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    MARBELLIZING MADE SIMPLE

    Class by Carol Jones
    SUPPLIES
    4 Colours of Acrylic Paint
    Color Float or Thin & Shade - or any similar product which increases
    blending time ( a water conditioner)
    Matte or Gloss Sealer or Varnish
    Brush for painting
    Tile or Wax Paper
    Water dish
    Palette knife or stir stick for mixing

    Step 1
    Apply a basic acrylic colour to your piece. If it is a small piece, you can apply a small amount of wax to the end of a pen and stick your piece on this for easy handling.

    Step 2
    Let the colour dry and then apply a coat of Matte Sealer.

    Step 3
    On a tile or wax paper, put out the colours you wish to use for marbleizing. Choose at least 3 different colours. Add enough of the Color Float or Conditioner so that the colour is fairly fluid and will slightly run.

    Step 4
    Apply the colours to your piece, allowing one colour to flow into another. Wash out your brush in water if your brush gets too ‘muddy’.
    If you want even more detail, you can run a feather through some of the colours, or add veins of a darker colour with a feather. I kept these instructions fairly simple, but yet effective, to give a start to marbellizing.

    Step 5
    After your piece has thoroughly dried, apply 2-3 coats of Sealer. Use either matte or gloss, depending on the type of finish you would like.

    Step 6
    On a larger piece, you may wish to lightly sand in between coats of sealer.

    Step 7
    As you can see, it is equally effective on a small piece or a large piece. You may even wish to try it on a piece of wood to use as flooring! Look at pictures in magazines and on the internet to see the thousands of shadings of marble.
    Many thanks to Carol Shore for the vase turning.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  6. #36
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    BRICK (Page 1)

    Class by Carol Jones
    Supplies
    Egg cartons or drink holders, various colours
    Polyfilla or Spackle
    Chalks or Paints
    Metal ruler
    Xacto Knife
    Scissors
    Tacky Glue
    Matte Mod Podge
    Matte Sealer - brush-on or Spray
    Measuring stick 3/16” thick, 2-2” long
    Sgraffitto tool or pen which has run out of ink
    Syringe
    Palette Knife
    Tweezers
    Scissors
    Pencil
    Brushes

    Step 1A
    Select egg cartons or beverage containers. They come in various shades of tan, buff or yellow. If you are painting them solidly, then it won’t matter which colour you choose. However, if you are chalking and allowing the natural colour to come through, you won’t want too many yellow.

    Step 1B
    There are different textures to the egg cartons. This is good as it will give you variety and will all blend in the finished product.

    Step 2
    Cut the cartons apart, keeping the flat surfaces aside. Some of the flat areas chosen may be small; this doesn’t matter, as you will be cutting them even smaller to make bricks.

    Step 3
    Chalks come in either stick form or softer chalk is in a case. The softer chalk can be purchased at a ceramic outlet.

    Step 4
    For the stick form, scrape a bit of each colour off on to separate pieces of wax paper. The colours used for the class were grey, black, dark brown and red-brown. They look different depending on what colour the egg carton was to begin with.

    Step 5
    Using a stiff brush, or a cloth, apply the chalks to the egg carton. For the colour of the sample, you want the egg carton colour to show through. Don’t be afraid to chalk one colour on top of another. You could get a similar effect by dry-brushing, as per Step 6.

    Step 6
    Colours can be dry-brushed by putting colour on your brush, and then removing most of it on paper toweling before scrubbing it into the egg carton.
    If you want more solid coverage, you could use paint. I would suggest that you either dry brush or paint on top of solid colours so that it isn’t so stark.

    Step 7
    Using a metal ruler, cut the egg carton into strips 3/16” wide

    Step 8
    Cut the strips into bricks 5/8” in length.
    You may notice that some of the bricks are thicker, especially the yellow ones. The egg carton is made in layers, so just peel away a couple of layers.

    Step 9
    Put all the bricks into a container and shake up the container so that all the colours are mixed up. Do not be concerned that the colours look stark at this point. It will be wonderful once they’re all glued in place.

    Step 10
    Paint your house, roombox, pathway or item to be covered in brick, the same colour as you will want the grouting between the bricks to be when finished. I chose to have grey grouting, so my background was painted grey. Apply a matte sealer when finished, either brush-on or spray.

    Step 11
    Mark increments of half inch or whatever measurement you want. The measurement itself isn’t important, this is just a guideline for you to follow when applying your bricks to make sure they are straight and so that you don’t end up going uphill with your rows.
    If you are doing a pathway, draw your design area out on paper first, and then trial fit your bricks if they are to be placed in a design. For this tutorial, we’ll just cover a wall.

    Srep 12
    With a brush, apply white glue to your wall for a couple of inches, Starting on the left hand side at the bottom of the building, apply white glue to your wall with a brush, for a couple of inches. Then place a brick making it flush with the corner.


    BRICK (Page 2)

    Step 13
    Have a small piece of wood approximately 3/16” wide ready to use. This will be used as a spacer. Place the spacer next to the first brick, and then place the second brick. Do this all along the bottom of the wall until you reach the end.

    Step 14
    Start the second row staggering the edge of the brick to the center of the row below (just like doing shingles). Again, use your spacer stick between the row you are working on and the row below. This will keep the spaces between the rows even.

    Step 15
    When you reach the end of the row, a brick will have to be cut in half. Save these half pieces as you will need them in every row.

    Step 16
    Do not worry if one brick is a tad wider than another; you can compensate with the grouting later. Try to keep the top of the rows as even as possible. Carry on up the wall all the way to the top.

    Step 17
    When doing an adjoining wall, draw on the lines to match the lines used on the first wall.
    When gluing the bricks, on the corner if there was a short brick on one side, then place a full brick on the other, doing this all the way up the wall. If possible, try and match or closely match the bricks on the corners.

    Step 18
    Using Matte Mod Podge, apply 2 coats to everything, letting it dry well between coats. Use a stiff brush so that you can get into the crevices. On the second coat, brush in the opposite direction to ensure that you have good coverage.

    Step 19
    Put some polyfilla into a separate container, and add a few drops of acrylic paint using the same colour as you used on the background of your wall. Mix thoroughly.

    Step 20
    Fill a syringe with your mixed polyfilla. I used a spatula and plunged the polyfilla to the bottom. It isn’t necessary to have a needle on the end.

    Step 21
    Slowly press down the plunger so that the coloured polyfilla will fill in the spaces between the bricks. Let dry 30 minutes to ½ hour before going on to next step.

    Step 22
    Use a sharp blade or a knife and clean up any polyfilla which has gone over the bricks. Be careful not to scrape too far down. You can also use a dampened cloth to wipe up any unwanted polyfilla.

    Step 23
    Using a sgraffito tool, obtained at any ceramic shop, or using a pen which has run out of ink, scratch each line of polyfilla which will then form a V shape between each brick.

    Step 24
    Use a stiff brush to remove any excess.

    Step 25
    When completely finished and satisfied with your brickwork, either spray or brush on two coats of matte sealer over everything.

    Step 26
    The little square you see at the side is the junction splice for my electrical. I got carried away and even bricked that so it would all match.
    Woman of short-lived passions

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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Slate Roof

    Class by Carol Jones
    Supply
    Black Acrylic Paint
    Water & Container
    Black Shoe Polish
    Stiff Brush
    Shoe Brush
    Cloth
    Talcum or Baby Powder
    Latex 0r Rubber Gloves
    Sealer - Spray or Brush-On

    Step 1
    Sometimes a kit comes with an imprinted roof. You could shingle over it if you wish, or you could make it look like slate!
    Make sure that the roof area is free from dust.
    WEAR GLOVES WHEN USING SHOE POLISH

    Step 2
    Make a wash of black acrylic by adding half water or more, and half black acrylic. Mix well. Apply with a brush to the roof, making sure that you go into all the cracks and crevices.

    Step 2b
    This is the important part, to get it into all the cracks; there obviously will be black on the roof as well, but it will be darkened in the next step.

    Step 3
    Using a cloth, apply shoe polish to the roof.

    Step 4
    Using a shoe brush, scrub the roof in a circular motion. This will give a slight sheen to the roof.

    Step 5
    Apply dusting powder to the roof, or you can shake on Baby Powder. This can get a bit messy, but it sure does smell nice!

    Step 6
    Using the shoe brush or other stiff brush, brush the powder into the crevices.

    Step 7
    You can leave the roof just as is, or if you wish, you can put a light spray on it.

    Step 8
    See what happens if you don’t read instructions carefully to wear gloves?? Now hands will have to be scrubbed!
    HAVE
    Woman of short-lived passions

  8. #38
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    'Egg Carton' Stone Wall or Floor Class (Pg 1)

    Lesson by Carol Jones
    Translation to Spanish: Carmen Herrera

    Supplies
    Egg Cartons (various colours) and Drink Holders
    Chalks and/or acyrlic paints in various colours
    Glue - Tacky would do, but Grrrip or Aleen'es Quick Grab would be better
    Modge Podge - Matt
    Sealer-Matt
    Rags or cloth
    Brushes
    Palette Knife
    Poly Filla or Drywall compound
    Empty Container to mix the Poly Filla or Drywall compoun

    Step #1
    This technique can be used for a stone wall or for flooring.
    1. Apply a coat of paint, to match the grouting you will be using, to your wall or flooring.
    2. Seal well with a matte sealer
    Paso 1
    Esta t?cnica puede ser utilizada para un muro de piedra o un suelo.
    1. Aplique una capa de pintura, para que coincida con la lechada que vas a utilizar, a su muro o suelo.
    2. Selle bien con un sellador mate

    Step #2
    Egg cartons come in various shades of grey and yellow, and even purple! Containers which hold drinks or coffees for take-out will also work.
    Notice that one side is smooth, usually the top of the egg carton, but the inside is wonderfully bumpy, just like rocks would be.
    You will need small rocks as well as bigger ones, so all parts of the egg carton can be used
    Paso 2
    Cartones de huevos vienen en varios tonos de gris y amarillo, e incluso p?rpura! Los contenedores que contienen las bebidas o caf?s para llevar tambi?n servir?n.
    Observe que un lado es liso, por lo general la parte superior de la caja de huevo, pero el interior es muy accidentado, son igual que las rocas .
    Usted necesitar? peque?as rocas, as? como m?s grandes, por lo que todas las partes de cart?n de los huevos pueden ser utilizados

    Step #3
    You don't want to cover up the natural colour of the egg cartons, so colour will be applied softly, allowing the colour to come through.
    A combination of chalks and 'dry brushing' acrylic paints was used in the models.
    There's no need to go out and purchase chalks unless you will be using them for other projects. If you have chalks on hand, then you can either rub a cloth or brush on to the chalk stick and then apply to the egg carton. Another method is to gently scrape the chalk colours on to a piece of waxed paper, and use a stiff brush or cloth and dip into the powder and apply it to the egg carton.
    This gives subtle shades.
    Paso 3
    Usted no quiere a cubrir el color natural de las cajas de huevo, por lo que el color debe aplicarse suavemente, permitiendo que el color natural se vea a trav?s.
    Una combinaci?n de tizas y pinturas acr?licas con "pincel seco” se utiliz? en los modelos.
    No hay necesidad de salir y comprar las tizas a menos que usted vaya a utilizarlas para otros proyectos. Si usted tiene tizas en mano, entonces usted puede frotar un cepillo o pa?o con la tiza y luego se aplican a los de cartones de huevos. Otro m?todo consiste en raspar suavemente la tiza de colores en un pedazo de papel encerado, y utilizar un cepillo r?gido o un pa?o moj?ndolo en el polvo y aplicar a la caja de huevo.
    Esto le da matices sutiles

    Step #4
    The egg cartons can be coloured using different shades of acrylic paint.
    For the small house, approximately 3 egg cartons were used, with each carton being slightly different shades eg. more browns on one, more greys on another. One of the carton I used was a pale yellow.
    1. Put various colours out on waxed paper.
    2. Have paper towelling nearby. Dip a stiff brush into a colour, and remove most of the colour on the paper towelling, then rub it into the egg carton. Do NOT try for solid coverage...you want the egg carton colouring to show through.
    3. One of the cartons used was a pale yellow, and on this carton I used rusty reds and browns.
    4. For the stone windows, a drink container was used, and it was left plain, not coloured at all.
    Paso 4
    El cart?n de huevo puede ser de color utilizando diferentes tonos de pintura acr?lica.
    Para la casa peque?a fueron utilizados aproximadamente 3 cajas de huevos, cada cart?n est? pintado ligeramente en diferentes tonos, por ejemplo: m?s pardos en una, m?s grises en otro. Uno de los colores que he usado en un cart?n fue una de color amarillo p?lido.
    1. Poner varios colores en papel encerado.
    2. Toallas de papel tienen cerca. Introduzca un pincel de pelo duro en un color, y elimine la mayor?a del color en el papel y, a continuaci?n, frotar en el cart?n de huevos. NO trate de dar una cobertura s?lida ... desea que el color del cart?n de huevo se vea a trav?s.
    3. Uno de los cartones que se utilice fue un amarillo p?lido, y en este he usado rojos oxido y marrones.
    4. Por la piedra de las ventanas, se ha utilizado un contenedor de cart?n para bebida sin colorear.

    Step #5
    To make the stones for the floor or wall, the egg cartons can either be torn apart, or cut apart. I prefer to tear it apart, but you must hold the carton in such a way that you tear all layers equally. I feel it gives more of an irregular shape.
    In miniatures, we don't have to use a hammer to break up a stone to make it fit! We can use our scissors.
    Paso 5
    Para realizar las piedras para el suelo o pared, el cart?n de huevo puede ser desgarrado (a mano)o cortado ( a tijera). Yo prefiero romperlo, pero usted debe hacerlo de tal manera que todos los trozos queden igual. Creo que le da una forma m?s irregular.
    ¡En miniaturas, no tenemos que usar un martillo para romper una piedra para hacer que encaje! Podemos usar nuestras tijera.

    Step #6
    Window and Door Treatment
    Using the natural colour of the cardboard from drink holders, scissors were used to cut each rectangle.
    The small bricks were approximately 1/4" square, and the longer bricks were 1/4" x 3/4".
    Starting at the bottom of the window or doorway, the stones were glued first on one side, and then on the other, trying to keep it as even as possible, working towards the top, leaving a small space between each stone.
    Paso 6
    tratamiento de ventanas y puertas
    Utilizando el color natural de cart?n de los contenedores de bebida , se utilizaron tijeras para cortar cada rect?ngulo.
    Los peque?os ladrillos fueron de aproximadamente 1/4 "cuadrado, y los ladrillos ya fueron 1/4" x 3/4 ".
    Las piedras fueron pegadas en primer lugar en un lado y, a continuaci?n, por el otro a partir de la parte inferior de la ventana o puerta, trabajan hacia la parte superior, dejando un peque?o espacio entre cada piedra.

    Step #7
    Before applying stones to the wall, draw horizontal lines at various heights..perhaps one at 1 1/2", the next one at 2 1/4", the next at 2 3/4", 3 1/2". This is to give you a guideline. Mark these lines similarly around the rest of the walls.
    READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE PROCEEDING so that you will understand the whole process.
    When applying the stone, Tacky Glue will work, but Grrrip or Fast Grab Tacky makes the job a little easier. Work in one section at a time, trying to make the stones match up to the first line, however, some being under or over doesn't matter and does give it interest. You may find that one stone will fill in the section, while next it you may have a smaller stone and require two or three to meet the line.
    Use these lines as a guideline only. Think if they were real stones and pretend you are building the wall from the ground up, trying more or less to keep it even, but allowing some to be taller than the line, or smaller.
    When you go to apply the second row of stones, stagger it just as one would when shingling a roof. Place the first stone over two stones.
    Fold the cardboard around corners, so that when finished, it looks like a 'corner stone'...but again, have some stones larger than others so that the spaces between will be staggered.
    Woman of short-lived passions

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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Stain Glass

    Lesson by Sue Vining, Photos: Carol Jones.



    Sue's Stain Glass Supllay

    -Water-based Glass Art Stain Various Colours or Gallery Glass
    -Water-based Liquid Lead (Rainbow Leading Paint)
    -Lined or graph paper
    -Pattern
    --Pencil and Eraser
    -Pins
    -Q-tips


    Step #1

    1. Select a pattern suitable for the size and style of the stained glass window you want.
    2. Trace or Draw your pattern on lined or graph paper. This gives you guide lines to keep everything centered and straight. Remember to leave room for your window frame.
    3. Place your glass over your pattern and using a black fine permanent pen, like a Sharpie, trace over the pencil lines. You will be able to see if you missed any lines.


    step #2

    1. Liquid Lead is a dimensional paint, and will leave a ridge. Work on a flat surface and try to keep the line as thin as possible by 'pulling' it along your outline.
    2. Be sure all lines meet and intersect. This makes a contained area for each colour.
    3. Use pins to pop any air bubbles.
    4. Let the lead lines dry over night before applying colour.


    Step #3

    Before you start to apply your colour, there are some things you need to know. Some colours are very 'drippy'. Have a moist Q-tip ready for cleaning up drops. If this is your first time using this type of paint, it would be
    best to practice on a scrap piece of plastic so that you get the feel of it first.
    1. Start in the center of your design and work your way out. Use this colour to apply to all the areas of the same colour (all red, or all yellow, etc).
    2. Use a clean pin to push the paint into the corners and to pop all air bubbles.


    Step #4

    1. You can apply a second colour, as long as they aren't side by side, otherwise they may bleed.
    2. This photo demonstrates how to 'move' the colour into the corners using a pin.


    Step #5

    1. Apply all your colours as in the previous step.
    2. If you want a marbellized look, you can swirl one colour into the next while they are wet. It is strongly suggested that you try this on a scrap piece first.
    3. Let your colours dry thoroughly before moving your piece.


    Finish Project






    Create Miniature and Dolls House Stained Glass Effects

    By Lesley Shepherd, About.com Guide

    See More About:

    1 of 7

    Previous Next

    Introduction to Creating Miniature Stained Glass Effects
    Dollhouse Stained Glass Created Using a Printed Transparency
    Lesley Shepherd © 2007

    Stained Glass effects are useful for many types of miniatures. These techniques can be used to color miniature glass and plastic containers, lampshades, plates, and serving trays as well as to create the effects of stained glass windows in miniature for dolls houses or other scale buildings.
    Clear acetate sheets or thin glass work best as a surface. Test your colors on a surface sample first. Some plastics will cause coloring pens or felt pens to bead up. Other colors may destroy the plastic surface you want to use. Check first!
    Stained glass is most realistic if the colors match real samples and the lead lines between the colors follow paths properly. Glass pieces with an inner curve are difficult to cut, lead lines often divide pieces into simpler shapes. Some lead lines are used to emphasize the shapes in the overall picture, others balance the overall picture. Look at photographs of leaded glass similar to the design you want to reproduce to make sure you can copy not only the colors, but the distinctive leading lines.


    Materials to Create Miniature Stained Glass Windows
    Materials for Making Dollhouse Scale Stained Glass Windows
    Lesley Shepherd © 2007
    To create miniature or dolls house stained glass you will need :
    • Transparent ink pens capable of writing on glass or plastic (or you can use craft store glass effect paints) For these projects I used Sakura Glaze Pens
    • Acetate sheets or thin pieces of glass, acrylic or plastic glazing. Some clear report covers from the stationery store work well.
    • A stained glass pattern in the correct size to trace over, or you can use an overhead transparency you print with a laser or ink jet printer to print directly on clear plastic.
    • A black gel glaze pen to create raised black lines to resemble lead lines on stained glass, or thin peel off lines in a silver color, available from scrapbooking suppliers.

    Patterns for Miniature Stained Glass Windows
    Patterns for Simple Dollhouse Stained Glass Windows
    Lesley Shepherd © 2007
    Print this pattern to the scale you wish for your miniature scene or dollhouse and use it as a guide beneath your window or sheet of plastic. Alternatively, print this pattern onto an overhead transparency sheet using an inkjet or laser printer. Check that the transparency sheet is compatible with the type of printer you are using.
    If you prefer, print an alternate design from a book of stained glass patterns or from a website which offers copyright free patterns.
    The detailed window on the introductory page of these instructions was created by printing a Dover books illustration for a William Morris wood cut onto a piece of overhead transparency film using an ink jet printer. In this case, the slight coating on the overhead film did not detract from the final design.
    Choosing Patterns for Miniature Stained Glass
    Simple patterns work best. Patterns with a lot of free flowing lines will require a very steady hand with a pen. If you wish to use silver peel off lines to create lead lines for miniatures, use designs which do not have many curves. If you intend to use a gel pen to create the lead lines, choose a design with lines which are far enough apart that the pen lines will not obscure the glass design. If you choose a traditional stained glass window which has detailing applied to the glass (faces, hands etc.), choose a design with the largest subjects you can find. Very elaborate designs may become too crowded to be effective when reduced to a smaller scale.


    Miniature Windows Printed on Overhead Transparency Film Using an Ink Jet Printer
    Overhead Transparency Printed by an Inkjet to Make Dollhouse Stained Glass Windows
    Lesley Shepherd © 2007
    The photo above shows miniature window designs printed on an overhead transparency using an inkjet printer. Suitable overhead transparency pages can be bought from a stationery or office supply store.
    Some overhead transparency pages have a coating to enable the ink to adhere better. You may need to clean this coating off the non printed side of the transparency before you use markers, glaze pens, or stained glass paint to color your design. Test a corner of the sheet to determine if this is necessary. Many coatings can be removed with alcohol on a cotton swab.
    It may not be possible to completely remove the coating from the overhead sheet to create a completely clear window. If this is the case, your window will have a slight frosted effect which will be appropriate for particular applications.


    Painting on Film to Create Stained Glass for Miniatures or Dolls Houses
    Dollhouse Stained Glass Colored with Glaze Gel Pens
    Lesley Shepherd © 2007
    Basic glass Coloring Techniques
    Tape your film or glass over your miniature printed stained glass window design to hold it perfectly flat. Fill in areas of color using glaze pens, markers or stained glass paints.
    If you are coloring onto a printed overhead sheet, clean the back side of the sheet with soap and water or alcohol (make sure the printed side doesn't get wet or damp or it may run!) Color on the back side of the overhead sheet, the side which is not printed. That way the printed design lines will cover any slight mistakes you make.
    Fill in colored areas which are not adjacent. Allow the color to dry before coloring the area which borders it, otherwise the colors may bleed.
    For deeper colors, apply a second coat of ink or paint to the section after the first coat has dried.
    To Create Marbled Glass - apply a small patch of opaque white glaze to the area you wish to marble, then apply small patches of color and stroke them through the white glaze with a blunt toothpick or pin. Use the toothpick to move the marbled glaze to the edges of the fill area to completely cover it. Allow to dry (opaque white glaze pens seem transparent until they dry)
    To Create Streaky Glass - use two closely related colors to fill the area and allow them to bleed or run together. If you do not have a second closely related color, apply your color to the patch you wish to appear streaky, allow it to dry, then apply a second layer in streaks on top of the first (don't completely fill the area the second time).
    To Create Old Clear Glass- Fill the area with clear glaze and allow to dry. Apply a second coat thinly to the first in a swirl pattern, or streaks (do not completely fill the area with the second coat). When viewed from the front of the window it will appear to have streaks and swirls in the clear finish when dry which will resemble old rolled glass.

    Applying Lead Lines to Miniature Faux Stained Glass
    Dollhouse Stained Glass with Silver Sticker Lines Added to Mimic Leading
    Lesley Shepherd © 2007
    To apply lead lines to miniature faux stained glass, first ensure the object is completely colored, all colors are dry and surfaces are clean. (See previous step)
    Using Peel Off Lines as Lead Lines
    To use peel off lines, carefully pull back on an individual line and remove it from the backing. Place the line on the colored plastic or glass, extending it slightly beyond the area you intend to cover. Use a craft stick or paper embossing tool to press gently down on the line as you lay it in place. Trim off the excess slightly beyond where you will have it end in the final. Apply all lines to your piece, cutting and trimming as necessary. A fine pointed sharp craft knife will help trim the final ends square. If the piece will be fitted into a dollhouse window frame, add a final peel off line as an outline on all outside edges. Leave a border (1/8 to 1/4 inch) along the outside edges of your stained glass piece to allow you to fit it into a window frame.
    Using Embossing/Glaze Pens as Lead Lines
    To create lead lines with an embossing/glaze pen, determine which side is the right side. If you have created texture with glaze pens to create special glass effects you may want to use the uncoated side of your panel as the right or show side. Lay your colored panel on a flat surface and tape it down right side up. Draw a black glaze pen slowly over the surface to create raised black lines in places that would normally be leaded. Remember that tight inside curves are difficult in glass. Pieces are often cut to have simple curves. If you are using a reduced glass pattern for your miniature stained glass, you can follow the actual lead lines given. If you are using an illustration, you will have to determine where the most logical lead lines should go.
    Using Printed Transparencies
    If you use a printed transparency the print outlines will serve as lead.


    Miniature Applications for Faux Stained Glass
    Miniature Faux Stained Glass Windows, Wardian Case and Serving Tray
    Lesley Shepherd © 2007
    Miniature faux stained glass can be used to decorate boxes, create serving trays, and replicate miniature windows for dolls houses or other scale buildings. The same technique can also be used to color miniature pitchers and plates to create the effect of clear plastic, or colored glass.
    Three dimensional objects can also be given the effect of stained glass. The Wardian Case shown here was created as a flat object and folded and glued into shape after the colored glaze was added with glaze pens.
    Create a Glass or Colored Plastic Serving Tray for Miniature Settings
    • Determine the dimensions and shape you would like for your serving tray.
    • Determine where the crease lines will go for a platter, plate or shaped tray.
    • Lay a piece of acetate or plastic over a printed template or illustration.
    • Copy the design using gel glaze pens, markers or stained glass paints.
    • Leave to dry.
    • Fold gently on fold lines or crease to form a rim (plates and platters).
    Create Colored Plastic Dishes

    Use glass paint or glaze pens to coat a plastic plate or dollhouse dish. Set aside to dry. Use as many coats as necessary to create the depth of color you wish. As with the stained glass windows allow each color to dry before coloring adjacent areas.
    Lần sửa cuối bởi obaasan, ngày 16-06-2012 lúc 09:58 PM.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  10. #40
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    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    SHAKE ROOF

    Class by Peter Dawson
    TIPS FOR APPLYING AND FINISHING A CEDAR SHAKE ROOF

    1. First step is to draw parallel lines on the roof to position each row of shakes. For a one and a quarter inch long shake aim for a half-inch overlap.

    2. First row needs two layers of shakes OR a single strip 1/16" x 1/4" x length along the roof edge to set first row of shakes at proper angle.

    3. Let each row of shakes set (let glue dry) before applying next row. Use carpenters white glue and masking tape to hold shakes in position while glue drys.

    4. Before glueing a new row of shakes run a flat file (8") over and along the overlap area to get rid of any humps or bumps that may exist.

    5. When all the shakes have been applied sand down surface with downward strokes to remove all sharp edges. 100 or 120 grit garnet paper is ideal.

    6. To give the roof an authentic weathered look a stain can be easily made by taking a (rusty) tin filled with rusty nails, nuts, bolts or whatever. Pour in a half-cup (or more) of WHITE VINEGAR and leave overnight. Pour off liquid into a glass jar with a screw cap and you have a very good stain to weather any bare wood, but in particular your new cedar shake roof. Simply apply with a small artist type brush. Quick drying and darkens somewhat soon after application.

    Peter Dawson.
    Duncan, BC,

    Woman of short-lived passions

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