+ Trả lời Chủ đề

Chủ đề: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

Trang 1 của 17 1 2 3 11 ... CuốiCuối
Kết quả 1 đến 10 của 164
  1. #1
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
    Bài viết
    3,423
    Rep Power
    10

    Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Mục lục:

    1. khung giường
    2. cây sồi tí hon
    3. bánh bông lan
    4. giầy da
    5. chụp đèn
    6. đi dây điện
    7. đôi cánh tiên
    8. bàn tay
    9. bàn chân
    10. hàng rào hoa
    11. gương cũ ba phần
    12. bí đỏ
    13. bút lông & bình mực
    14. quả đào
    15. mũ phụ nữ ở thập kỷ 20
    16. rèm cửa
    17. món điểm tâm (trứng ốp la, hot dog)
    18. con vẹt
    19. gắn lông vẹt
    20. táo xanh
    21. bánh mì
    22. giá đựng đĩa
    23. va-li
    24. chổi phù thủy
    25. thịt cừu
    26. gốc cây
    27. hoàn thiện sản phẩm
    28. hoàn thiện đồ gỗ
    29. tam cấp đá rêu
    30. cây thu nhỏ
    31. xây dựng nhà cửa
    32. làm nhà có vẻ cũ, cổ
    33. vách xếp lớp
    34. làm đồ vật giống đá cẩm thạch
    35. tường gạch
    36. mái ngói
    37. tường đá
    38. kính màu
    39. mái bằng ván mỏng
    40. bánh mì cressent
    bánh mì xoắn
    bánh ngọt nhân mứt
    bánh cookie uống trà
    lắp đèn cho tiền sảnh
    tô súp
    khoai tây
    táo kẹo
    cà chua
    bonsai
    cam
    giỏ đựng rau củ
    hộp đựng bánh mì đẩy nắp lên
    tủ lạnh
    ghế nệm da
    giường nệm
    lò nướng
    giá cắm nến
    gối có diềm
    chạn bếp cũ
    khoan ngang
    chụp đèn
    ghế ống kim loại
    bình tưới cây
    bàn rượu mặt bàn cẩm thạch trắng
    chao đèn xưa
    kệ đựng đồ phòng tắm
    bồn rửa chén
    giỏ đựng bóng
    bàn ăn cũ, nhỏ
    giỏ lát bằng kẽm
    da
    tủ bếp hiện đại
    giỏ lát bằng giấy
    chồng sách
    đồ gồ́m từ giấy
    viền gối
    rèm cửa
    diềm màn xếp nếp
    dù
    chậu cỏ shamrock
    bìa sách chủ đề valentine
    cửa bằng kẽm
    tổ chim
    đèn cầy, đèn chùm
    bàn tròn phủ khăn
    thay ra giường
    mái tranh
    giếng ước
    an-bum hình
    sofa
    hạt pha lê, cườm làm lọ nc hoa, đèn
    đàn piano bằng cách gấp giấy
    xếp hộp lưu niệm/hộp diêm
    ! lò sưởi bằng đèn led
    ! đèn bàn hình gấu
    ! đèn chùm
    ! đèn đọc sách
    hải đăng
    đèn treo tường
    sách - từ gỗ
    chuông
    giỏ đựng đồ ăn đi picnic
    cây cọ
    hònnonbộ
    hồ sen
    hũ nòng nọc
    giả gỗ gụ
    giả đá graphite
    tường đá
    ! lều
    vườn
    kệ trồng hoa
    lò nướng
    ghế băng đơn giản
    mái ngói
    cửa tủ bếp
    bàn ghế cũ bằng cây khô
    chồn hôi
    tủ ngăn kéo
    ghế văn phòng
    ghế bành
    vách ngăn di động
    bàn làm đồ thủ công
    dù cầm tay
    ghế bành vua Louis bằng giấy, tiếng Pháp
    kệ đựng hũ gia vị bằng que đè lưỡi
    chậu cây trong nhà
    nón chổi quả cầu ma thuật của phù thủy
    ! ghế bọc nệm
    bánh Jubilee
    mũ rộng vành phụ nữ
    nấm
    hoa chưng bàn ăn
    túi đeo vai học sinh
    đồ gỗ cũ kỹ
    bọc da
    váy ba-lê em bé
    ghế nệm
    lò sưởi
    dây leo
    vườn
    móc quần áo
    giường kiểu tủ
    ví đầm và nơ
    hoa cô dâu
    chuồng gà
    giỏ đựng quà
    bàn trang trí
    ly bạc; tô bằng đất sét; đĩa bằng đất sét; chảo bằng đất sét; ly gốm; bình trà
    chủ đề Valentine: lọ hoa hồng, nến
    khung hình
    gương hình sao
    đồng hồ treo tường
    Lần sửa cuối bởi obaasan, ngày 02-07-2012 lúc 08:57 PM.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  2. #2
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
    Bài viết
    3,423
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)




    Làm giường thu nhỏ
    (tác giả Debra Dinges
    )


    Vật liệu:
    • 4 - 4.75" pieces stair railing (4 thanh xẻ mộng dài khoảng 12cm)
    • Small mini miter box and saw (hộp cắt mộng và cưa nhỏ)
    • Pencil (bút chì)
    • Pin drill (khoan ghim)
    • Ruler (thước kẻ)
    • Cutting mat with measurements (not required but very useful for straight gluing) (miếng lót để cắt có chia khoảng cách)
    • Package of newel posts (or use wooden Chinese chopsticks!) (gói trụ đầu giường, hoặc dùng đũa)
    • Miscellaneous small wood scraps (mẩu gỗ vụn)
    • 1-2 packages of 1" scale stair rail ( một hai gói các thanh xẻ mộng dài 2,5cm)
    • Several toothpicks (square cut recommended) (vài cây tăm xỉa răng, nên hình vuông)








    1.



    Trong bài hướng dẫn này, tôi dùng gỗ chưa xử lý, nếu muốn giường có màu gỗ, hãy tô màu trước vì khi đã dán keo rồi, màu sẽ không ăn nữa.
    (I am using unfinished wood for these instructions. If you want to use a wood stain and/or polyurethane finish on your bed, do the staining first to avoid running into difficulties with unsightly areas where the stain will not penetrate glue marks.)






    2. Dùng hộp cắt mộng, cắt các thanh đã xẻ mộng thành 4 thanh dài 12 cm. (Cut 4 4.75" pieces from the stair rail. A mini miter box and saw are handy too.)




    3. Lấy bút chì đánh dấu từng đoạn 1/4" (0,5cm)
    Lấy khoan ghim, cẩn thận khoan một lỗ nông ở phía dưới thanh xẻ rãnh này. đừng khoan xuyên hết thanh gỗ mà chỉ vừa đủ sâu để định vị dán keo bằng tăm xỉa răng thôi.

    Using a pencil mark each 4.75" piece every 1/4". Using the pin drill, carefully drill a shallow hole on the UNDER side of the stair rail. You do not want the hole to go all the way through the wood but you do want enough depth to position and glue in a toothpick. (If you want to position your toothpicks differently, please do the math to make sure you have at least 1/4" left on either side.)







    4. Bóp nhẹ chút keo (không tan trong nước) thành một vũng nhỏ rồi dùng tăm chấm. Tôi dùng miếng lót Fiskar để định vị chính xác vị trí tăm xỉa răng vì trên tấm lót này có thước đo độ sẵn.
    You can use your glue of choice for this next step, but make sure it is not water soluble glue. Squeeze some wood glue into a little 'puddle' and use a toothpick to apply it. (I'm using a craft glue with a tiny applicator, which I like to use to get started - just a personal preference.) I use a Fiskars self healing craft mat for accurate positioning of the toothpicks because it has the grid lines for measurements.





    5. Dán đầu tăm vô các lỗ đã khoan. Cần dán cho kịp kẻo keo khô. đôi khi vì tăm có thể ngắn dài không đều hoặc lỗ khoan nông sâu không đều khiến việc dán tăm này làm mình bực mình lắm.

    Glue each end of the toothpick into the holes you drilled. This part can get frustrating because you have to work before the glue dries. You are also going to find out that your toothpicks may have tiny variations in size and length and your holes are drilled at different depths.





    6.

    đừng tuyệt vọng, cứ dán khoảng 4-5 cây tăm ở phần giữa trước, để khô rồi hãy làm tiếp. khi khô rồi, ta có thể lèn chéo cây tăm vào sẽ dễ gắn hơn. Mấy lỗ khoan chỉ để mình ước lượng chỗ dán tăm chớ không nhất thiết phải dán đúng lỗ

    Don't despair! It helps to insert and glue about 4-5 toothpicks in the center portion and letting them dry several hours before continuing. Once it's dry, you can slide in the toothpicks at an angle and settle them in more easily. Treat your "drill holes" as guides, not absolutes, and if you can't get them all into the holes, the glue and the 'gutter' on the rail will hold them in place. Just make sure each toothpick is placed as exactly as possibly.




    7.



    Khi làm xong, bạn sẽ có hai "chấn song" (có thể dùng làm nhiều món đồ khác như cũi em bé; hàng rào v.v...) Lưu ý là giường của tôi phần song đầu giường và chân giường cao bằng nhau, còn bạn có thể cắt đôi tăm ra để làm chấn song thấp hơn cho phần chân giường.


    Once you are done, you will have two 'grids'. (With a potential to make other things! - i.e. playpen, porch railing, etc.) Notice that mine are the same size. I'm building a slightly different bed from the one in the original picture, with a decorative element to be added to the top of the headboard. You will probably want to cut down your toothpicks to half size for the footboard.)






    8. Phần tấm chắn đầu giường, bạn sẽ cần bốn trụ tròn có khía (không có thì dùng đũa cũng được)

    For the headboard, you will need four turned spindle newel posts. (Remember, you can substitute wooden chop sticks if preferred.) I use Houseworks #7009.





    9.


    Khoan lỗ ở đầu các trụ, sâu khoảng 0,5 cm. Dán một mẫu tăm vô lỗ của một trụ, để khô, rồi lắp trụ kia vào đầu kia của mẫu tăm, kiểm tra cho hai trụ thẳng hàng.

    Drill holes in the top of each post, about 1/4" deep. Dry fit a piece of toothpick in the hole of one post; check to make sure the posts line up.





    10.

    Làm tương tự cho trụ giường kia. để mấy tiếng cho khô. Nếu thích thì cắt ngắn bớt đầu trên của trụ giường.

    Once things look lined up, dab a bit of wood glue in the holes, insert toothpick bit, and attach the second post. Allow to dry for a few hours. (The blob of yellow stuff in the picture is glue.) For the footboard posts, follow the same instructions, but cut off the newel posts tips (or leave them if you want all four posts to be the same height.)






    11.

    Dùng giấy nhám quấn quanh bút chì để mài láng đầu hai tấm chắn đầu và chân giường. Lắp các trụ vô tấm chắn rồi đánh bóng lại. Khi lắp xong, dán keo rồi để 24 tiếng cho khô. (Dùng miếng lót có chia độ để đảm bảo mọi thứ vuông vức.)

    Use sand paper wrapped around a pencil to sand the ends of the head and foot boards. Dry fit the posts to the boards and adjust your sanding accordingly. Once they are fitted, glue in place and allow to dry 24 hours. (Hint: Use a grid mat to make insure everything is 'squared up'.)








    12.

    Khi keo đã khô, cắt hai thanh có rãnh dài khoảng 15cm. đây là hai thanh thành giường. Khi hai tấm chắn đầu và chân giường đã khô keo, dùng một thanh có rãnh, đánh dấu điểm sẽ khoan lỗ. (Mình sẽ dùng một mẫu tăm xỉa răng nhỏ xíu làm chốt để giữ cho giường không lung lay). Ta sẽ gắn tấm giát giường vào phần có khoan rãnh của mặt trong thanh thành giường)
    While the glue is drying, cut two 6" lengths of rail. These will be the sides of the bed. When the glue is dry on your head and foot boards, use one of the rails to mark a spot for pin drilling. (We're going to use a tiny bit of toothpick as a dowel to add a bit of stability to the bed.) We are going to mount the side boards of the bed with the slotted part of the rail facing inward. (These slots will be handy for slipping in small flat pieces of wood for the bed slats.)





    13.
    Cẩn thận khoan lỗ xuyên qua lớp đầu tiên của miếng chắn đầu và chân giường đúng vị trí đã đánh dấu. Dùng khoan ghim để khoan. để ý là lỗ nằm ở thanh bên dưới của tấm chắn đầu giường, chớ không phải trên trụ. Ta phải lắp thanh thành giường sao cho nó không lòi ra quá nhiều, sau này trang trí khăn phủ giường sẽ không đẹp.

    Carefully drill holes through the first layer of the bottom rail of the head and footboards on the mark that you made. Using the pin drill. Notice the hole is located on the lower rail of the head board, not on the post. We want to mount the side boards so they don't stick out too far on the sides, which would interfere with the draping of a bedspread.





    14.

    Lắp một mẫu nhỏ tăm xỉa răng vào từng lỗ và khe của thanh thành giường.

    Dry fit a piece of piece of toothpick in each hole and the slot of your side rails.






    15. Khi đã vừa ý, dán keo vô từng lỗ và đầu các thanh thành giường

    Once you are satisfied, dap a bit of glue in each hole and in the end portion of the side rail and glue everything into place.







    16.


    Kẹp giường vào giữa tường và một cái hộp để giữ cho khung giường ngay ngắn trong khi chờ giường khô.

    Prop your bed between a wall and a box to keep the frame square and upright in the correct position while it is drying.







    17.

    Khi khung giường khô rồi, thêm các thanh giát giường vào để nâng đỡ nệm.
    Once your frame is dry, it is time to add slats for the support of a mattress. I fit three small pieces of wood to the bed and saw down and whittle the ends until they can easily fit into the slot on the side of the rails.






    18.

    Nếu thích, có thể dán luôn các miếng giát giường này vào đầu các thanh thành giường.
    If you prefer, you can glue the slats directly to the top of the rail.





    19.
    Thế là bạn đã làm xong giường ngủ rồi.

    Mẹo: Bây giờ bạn có thể sơn hoặc tô màu giường cho đẹp. Tôi thích phủ bằng một miếng xếp vừa khít có nệm bọc vải. Bạn cũng có thể gắn thêm mấy hạt cườm vào đầu các trụ giường cho đẹp.

    TIP: Finishing and a mattress. Now you can paint or stain the bed to complete the look. I like to cover a piece of fitted styrofoam with mattress ticking fabric. You might also consider adding fancy beads to the top of the bed posts as finials.
    Lần sửa cuối bởi obaasan, ngày 13-06-2012 lúc 04:12 PM.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  3. #3
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
    Bài viết
    3,423
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Làm cây sồi tí hon


    Making a Miniature
    Bonsai Turner's or English Oak Tree
    with Artist Jax Perrat
    of Ceynix Miniature Trees


    Materials Needed:
    • 20 Floral Wires: Gauge 26/28, 0.46mm: Thin, Green Painted
    • Florist Tape, Brown
    • Woodland Scenics Polyfibre
    • Flock, Fine
    • White Glue (PVA) with Fine Applicator or Brush
    • Spray Adhesive, Scenic Spray or Hair Spray
    • Wire Cutters
    • Scissors
    • Polystyrene / Modeling Plasticine
    • OPTIONAL: Enhanced Trunk Supplies
    • Pot of Acrylic Paste/Artist Paste (you will use only a teaspoon)
    • Acrylic Strong Pigment Paint
      - Grey, Recommended: Paynes Grey Acrylic
      - Burnt Umber (Brown)
    • Paint Brush, Small and Round (Inexpensive Variety)
    • Paint Brush, Small (Higher Quality for Dry Brushing)







    1. Start with your floral tape and cut a length about eight inches long. You don't want it too long or it gets in the way as you work. You can always cut more if you need it. Now cut that piece in half vertically.
    Enlarge Picture using the floral tape.

    TIP:
    It's even better if you use non-stick scissors or the tape will happily attach itself. Also, you will get tacky hands when working with the tape, so wash your hands often.


    2. Take two-wires and bind them together. This is how I start any size of tree -- just two wires.
    Enlarge Picture of wrapping the two-wire method.

    TIP:
    You need to keep the tension on the tape as you wrap, but not so tightly as to tear the tape though. I generally start in the middle of the wire and work up towards the ends. Do not separate the wires at the ends at this stage.


    3. Repeat the process with the remaining wires. I used 5 x 2-wires and 3 x 3-wires. Always with 3-wires then 2-wires but, generally an odd number of wire; nature likes odd numbers. So I used a total of 19 wires. I don't cut any of my wires off until I am ready to plant the tree. How you want the ends will depend on your planting method.
    Enlarge Picture of adding additional wires.

    TIP:
    At this stage you should have one bundle with five pairs of wires and one bundle with three triplets of wires. Thus you end up with eight separately wired bundles.


    4. Now take a double and a triplet set of wires and tape them together. This will form the top of our tree where we want a lot of foliate across the top to emulate nature.
    Enlarge Picture of merging the limbs together.


    5. Now add a further branch lower down the trunk, take your pick from your remaining six branches.
    Enlarge Picture of adding lower branch to trunk.

    6. And repeat this process again. You can slightly arrange the branches after you've taped them on, but you really want to try to get them in the right position to start with. The right position, of course, depends on the type of tree you're doing.
    Enlarge Picture of repeat the process of adding lower branches.

    7. You now have four branches remaining. As separate items, tape two together twice so you have two larger branches.
    Enlarge Picture of taping two wires together for larger branches.

    8. Now tape each of the separate branches in turn to the tree.
    Enlarge Picture of taping separate branches to the main trunk.

    9. Now put your tree aside for a moment and get out the artist paste and high pigment grey paint. You only need about a teaspoon of paste; this is why it's expensive if you don't already have it in stock. Because of the amount I use I put the paint straight in my pot, but you may want to put some out separately and colour it. A nice neutral grey should do. Don't over do it to start with; you can always add more paint if it doesn't look right.

    Paint the entire tree with the paste, following the direction that the bark would run naturally. This will take around ten minutes and you will need something into which to stand the tree when done. Now you see why I don't cut the wires down until I've finished a tree!
    Enlarge Picture of painted grey trunk and limbs.

    TIP:
    You want a paste that is white as it will be fine. I do not recommend the 3M brand although the color, ochre colour is nice, it is far too coarse and doesn't spread well.


    ENHANCED TRUNK OPTION FOLLOWING
    Dry Brushing using the high pigment brown acrylic.


    10. You can use the paint straight from the tube, but if you are not used to dry brushing then its best to put a little paint on the brush and use a kitchen/paper towel to wipe most of it off. Brush across the previous brush marks, highlighting the ridges. Be careful to not overload the brush or you will just end up with brown blobs all over the trunk. On a tree this size it will take you around 10-15 minutes to do the dry brushing.

    Because the tree is dry brushed it dries almost immediately. At this stage we set the tree aside.
    Enlarge Picture of results of Air brushing with the brown acrylic paint.

    TIP:
    A decent brush is needed for dry brushing to obtain the effects that you want; however, it will get ruined with brushing across the acrylic paste.


    11. Next we take our polyfibre. You only need about a tablespoon worth for this tree. Tease it out, stretch it into a fine netting.
    postiche, or black/dark brown dolls hair can also be used instead of polyfibre. You just have to fold it around and stretch it out until you have a tangled mass. If you end up with too large a hole, just fold the polyfibres over and start teasing again. Starting at the lowest branches pull a piece of the polyfibre out that is large enough to stretch across a couple of branches. Drop a dab of PVA on the end wires and pat the polyfibre onto this. Some people don't use glue, but I like to be sure. We start at the bottom because it's easier to get to each branch rather than trying to glue under one with polyfibre. So now we just have to work our way up the tree finishing with a piece right across the top. Foliage only tends to be on the outer edges of branches because that's where the sunlight reaches for them to do their work. This part doesn't take long, it's the teasing that takes the time. You can see from this photo, that the PVA was still wet, it's the only way I could get it to show up and also show you where to look for the polyfibre which is not easy to see.
    Enlarge Picture of completed first layer of polyfibre on the branches.

    TIP:
    A polyfibre can be purchased at railroad & miniature supply stores & sites. One packet will make many trees.


    12. Now for the messy part. Get your adhesive spray or hair spray. Spray the entire tree either in a contained area, like a box or outside. Spray the tree liberally so you can see the drops on the polyfibre. Hold the tree above newspaper. Sprinkle your foliage onto the polyfibre and it will adhere where there is adhesive or hair spray.
    Enlarge Picture of first layer of flocking.

    TIP:
    Alternative One to using the standard "flock".
    Cut a four inch cube square of upholstery foam; drench the foam into acrylic paint of the tree foliage color you want. Squeeze all the paint out of the foam, let dry till the foam is hard. When the foam is thoroughly dry, you can grate, using a normal kitchen grater, the foam cube. Using different grades of grater cut gives different grades of foam.

    Alternative Two to using the standard "flock".
    Some types of toy filling will also do, although you may have to dye them first. If you are doing a light coloured tree then the tan coloured filling will do. If you are doing a really dark coloured tree then you may want dark brown or black rather than green.


    13. Re-apply as needed. Recover the flock from the newspaper and then give the tree a quick spray over again with the hair spray and leave to dry for a couple of days. I find that this method, which I developed around twenty years ago, gives the transparency of real trees.
    Enlarge Picture of final flocking and drying.

    14. Finished bonsai Turner's or English Oak Tree.
    Enlarge Picture of completed bonsai tree.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  4. #4
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
    Bài viết
    3,423
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Making a Miniature Cake by
    IGMA Fellow Betsy Niederer


    Materials Needed:
    • Premo Polymer Clay:
      5053 Burnt umber - 12oz block
      5001 White - 1 block
      5310 Translucent - 1 block
      (If you don't like to use Premo, just get a good deep brown, and a medium yellow in the clay of your choice, as well as white and translucent.)
      5572 Cadmium yellow - 1 block
    • Kato Polyclay Medium - 2oz bottle (available at Polymer Clay Express -- You can use TLS or liquid Fimo as an option if you can't find Kato)
    • 1 4x4 ceramic tile - or something flat that can go in the oven like an old plate (please don't use the plate for food once you use it for clay)
    • Kemper Rose Cutter Set - # K50 (available at Polymer Clay Express)
    • Pasta machine, an acrylic roller, or a bottle for rolling clay
    • 2 or 3 popsicle (craft) sticks for mixing clay
    • Several toothpicks (cocktail sticks)
    • 1 pin
    • cornstarch or powder
    • 1 single edge razor blade
    • Baby wipes or some paper towels to keep your hands clean
    • Kemper Clay Cutter - 3/16th inch circle (if you don't have one you can use a drinking straw)
    • Delta Texture Magic - one tube of white (they have this at Michaels and AC Moore) If you can't find this you can use modeling paste
    • One glue syringe




    By popular request we are going to create a miniature chocolate and vanilla layer cake with vanilla icing. The chocoholics wanted the chocolate, and others wanted a good recipe for a realistic vanilla cake. So we're doing both. If you want an all chocolate or all vanilla cake, that's just fine! We'll do the chocolate layer first.

    Preheat your oven to either 275°F ( 135°C) if you are using Premo or Sculpey, or 265°F (129°C) degrees if you are using Fimo.


    1. You will need a piece of your burnt umber or dark brown clay, pasta machine or rolling device, the ¾ inch (2 cm) rose cutter, a pin, a cutting blade, and a piece of sand paper (optional). I always work on my ceramic tile so I can transport my work directly into the oven. If you don't have a tile you can bake your cake on foil or a paper plate (it won't burn).
    Break off a piece of your brown clay (1/4 of a block is more than enough) and mush it in your hands until it is soft and workable. Enlarge Picture of cake materials

    2. When your clay is ready, roll it through your pasta machine to get the air bubbles out. You will want your cake layers to measure about 1/8th of an inch thick ( 4 mm). To do this on my machine I roll the clay through the thickest setting. I cut the clay in half and lay half on the tile. I roll the second piece through the 4th smallest setting, then lay that on top of the first piece of clay on the tile. Since all machines are different you'll have to see what works best for you.
    Enlarge Picture of rolled polymor clay

    3. Cut the clay. Your cake layer "should" stick to your tile and not come off inside the cutter. If it does, just try again after brushing some cornstarch over the clay, and dusting the inside of the rose cutter. Brush off any excess cornstarch.
    Enlarge Picture of clay cutting

    4. Pull the excess clay away, leaving your layer.
    Enlarge Picture of removing excess clay


    5. Use your blade to loosen the layer from the tile, and set it aside to cool a bit and harden.
    Set the brown clay aside for a minute.
    Enlarge Picture of loosening the clay

    6. To make the vanilla layer you'll need ¼ of a bar of translucent. Then break off ¼ of the bar of white, and use ¼ of that. Break off ¼ of a bar of yellow, and use about 1/8th. These proportions are shown in the picture. Mix the white and yellow together.
    Enlarge Picture of mixing the Polymer clay

    7. Take about 1/3rd of the light yellow mix and set it aside.
    Enlarge Picture of setting aside the Yellow clay

    8. Condition the translucent, and add the 1/3rd chunk of yellow. The proportion should look approximately like that in the picture. If you have any questions - err on the side of less yellow. You can always add more later if necessary. Mix this well! It is important to remember that when you are going to start working with your white and translucent clay that you wash your hands to get off any of the brown, and any dust. I always dust my hands with cornstarch too, just to be sure all of the dust is off. You'd be surprised what can be on your hands!
    Enlarge Picture of mixing translucent and Yellow clay

    9. You will hopefully end up with a very translucent light yellow. Translucence is very important when making vanilla cakes - too much of the colored clay will make your cake look chalky after it is baked. You'll have enough to make lots of cakes, so store the excess in a plastic baggie to keep it clean.
    Enlarge Picture of mixed cake batter

    10. Proceed as before, you will want the layer to measure about 1/8th inch (4mm) thick. I find that this mix tends to be a bit stickier than the brown, so I dusted the clay with cornstarch.
    Enlarge Picture of the dusted cake layer

    11. Cut out your circle. If it doesn't stick to the tile, remember to dust the inside of the cutter with cornstarch.
    Enlarge Picture of cutting the Vanilla layer

    12. Remove the excess clay
    Enlarge Picture of removing excess cake layer

    13. Dust off the top.
    Enlarge Picture of dusting the top of the cake layer

    14. Remove the layer with your razor blade and set it aside for a minute to cool
    Enlarge Picture of set aside the Vanilla layer


    15. We're ready to cut slices!
    We're going to cut the slices before we texture the cake.
    Enlarge Picture of Preparting to cut Slices


    TIP: Remember, if your clay is sticky you can dust it with cornstarch, then brush it off when you're done!


    16. Starting with the chocolate layer, cut a slice with your blade. To show off the inside best I try to get a slice about ¼ the size of the cake.
    Enlarge Picture of cutting the cake Slices

    17. Since the layers will be lined up, you'll want them to look even. Use the chocolate wedge as a template on the vanilla layer to get a similar slice.
    Enlarge Picture of lining up the layers

    18. Cut the miniature cake layers as shown.
    Enlarge Picture of cutting the layers

    19. Cut the slices in half to make 2 servings of cake.
    Enlarge Picture of slicing the layers again

    TIP: The key is to hold your cake lightly so it stays in shape. If the clay is getting too soft just place it in the freezer for a few minutes to firm it up again. You can also dust your fingers with cornstarch. If you get fingerprints on the cake don't worry! They will be covered with icing


    20. Texturing the layers is a little tricky if you have hot hands. You want to try to keep the layer's shape, so hold it very, very gently as shown. If you find the clay is getting mushy and not holding it's shape you can place it in the freezer for a minute. We're not going to worry about fingerprints on the top of the cake because it's going to be covered with icing.
    Enlarge Picture of holding the Cake

    21. (a)The lazy way of making the cake texture is to press a piece of sand paper against the cut surface. It looks better if you do it the hard way. This method is just if you are in a hurry to complete your miniature cake!
    Enlarge Picture of using sand paper to texture a Cake

    21 (b) The Preferred method of texturing the cake: is to use a pin to tease up the clay on the cut surface. Be gentle, you don't want it to look like you've obviously stirred up the clay. You might have to go over it a couple of times.
    Enlarge Picture of using a pin to realistically texture your Cake

    22. Texture the entire cut cake surface.
    Enlarge Picture of surfacing the cut Cake surface

    23. Now that the vanilla layer has cooled a bit you can proceed as above. If your cake gets warm and starts to lose its shape, remember you can always freeze it for a few minutes. Remember to hold the clay very gently, and work slowly.
    Enlarge Picture of texture vanilla slice

    24.Texturing the entire cut surface of the Vanilla slice.
    Enlarge Picture of the textured the whole vanilla slice

    25. Texture the cut cake slices too. I generally only do one side since I have the slices laying on a plate.
    Enlarge Picture of the texturing cake slices

    26.You'll want some crumbs for the cake plate, so use your pin to make some vanilla and chocolate crumbs
    Enlarge Picture of making Chocolate and Vanilla crumbs

    TIP: Don't poke holes in the clay - you want to scrape the pin against the clay surface - swirl it, make little circles, anything that helps to give the cake texture. If it doesn't look crumbly enough try and cool it in the fridge and try again.


    27. Set your layers, slices, and crumbs on your tile and bake for about 15 minutes in your preheated oven. Don't worry about not baking them for the entire thirty minutes (in the case of Premo and Fimo) since they will be going into the oven two more times. We just want to harden them up so we can frost them.
    Enlarge Picture of baking your Miniature Cake

    28. Lets make icing! You'll need a tile, liquid Kato Fimo or TLS, and a lump of white clay - about 1/8th of your 2oz. bar. You'll probably need several craft sticks because you'll most likely break them while mixing (I always do).
    Enlarge Picture of preparing Cake icing

    29. Start mixing the solid and liquid clay together. If you're using TLS or liquid Fimo it may take a bit more muscle, but it will come together I swear! Kato seems to mix better, which is why it's now my favorite liquid clay. Note the proportions in the picture.
    Keep mixing: you'll have to use some muscle! Press hard to get the clays to come together.
    Enlarge Picture of mixing the solid and liquid clays

    30. Keep mixing! Your clay should look approximately like the picture. This may take a while so don't give up!
    Enlarge Picture of mixing the solid and liquid clays

    31. If your clay mix looks too dry like mine did - just add more liquid Kato.
    Enlarge Picture of Add more Liquid if dry



    TIP: if the icing looks too translucent you can mix it all back together again and add a tiny bit of the white mix to tone it down.



    32. I promise that these will mix! just keep mixing! It's worth the wait.
    Enlarge Picture of Keep mixing!

    33. Finally! eventually it looks like this: Betty Crocker's canned icing - best, fluffy, white, and inedible!
    Enlarge Picture of the completed icing

    TIP: If for some reason your icing doesn't look like mine, it may be too liquidy. If that's the case just add more white clay and mix it up. If it's too stiff, just add a touch more Kato. It should be of a texture to hold swirls. If it's too lumpy it just means you haven't mixed it enough.



    34. Get your cake layers from the oven. be careful! they're hot! Please leave the oven on. Let your cakes cool off before adding the icing, because if you don't (like a real cake) it will melt off. Using a toothpick (cocktail stick) take a bit of the icing and spread it on top of one of the layers. We're doing the middle layer only right now.
    Enlarge Picture of spreading the cake icing

    35. When your layer is completely covered (don't worry about making swirls now)
    Enlarge Picture of icing on the Cake

    36. Carefully put the top layer on, make sure they are even, and set them on your tile to bake.
    Enlarge Picture of joining the Cake layers

    37.Be sure to ice the centers of your slices too. Set them on the tile.
    Enlarge Picture of the Cake slices

    38.This is how your miniature cake slice should look like!
    Bake your cake for another fifthteen minutes to set the icing.
    Enlarge Picture of miniature Cake slice

    39. Optional: Making miniature chocolate roses
    Take a chunk of your brown clay and work it enough to put it through the pasta machine. Start at the thickest setting and gradually run the clay through all of the settings until it is as thin as you can make it. Gently place this sheet on your tile and using your 3/16th Kemper circle cutter, cut a bunch of circles as shown. If you feel that your pasta machine didn't flatten them well, just squash them with your finger to make them nice and thin. If your clay doesn't stick to the tile while you are cutting, just dust it with a bit of cornstarch, and dust the inside of your cutter. You can always brush it off later.
    Enlarge Picture of preparing miniature roses

    40. Remove the excess clay.
    Enlarge Picture of the clay circles

    41.We're going to start with tiny roses. Using your razor blade, cut some of the circles in half. Use your razor blade to remove the halves, and arrange three halves as shown in the picture on your tile.
    Make sure that they overlap just a tiny bit.
    Enlarge Picture of slicing the clay circles

    42. Use your razor blade to remove the chain of three clay halves and carefully set them on the tip of one of your non-dominant fingers.
    (if you're right handed, stick them on one of the fingers of your left hand)
    Enlarge Picture of halved clay circles

    43. Follow the arrows in the picture. just loosely roll the clay over itself. Make sure it is loose - if you've rolled too tightly just throw that one away and get more.
    Enlarge Picture of rolling the rose petals

    44. Follow the arrows in the picture again.
    Enlarge Picture of rolling the rose petals

    45. Your little rose should look something like this. I've outlined the petals just so you can see them better. Crimp the bottom between your fingers to hold everything together.
    Enlarge Picture of chocolate petals outlined

    46. Use a toothpick (cocktail stick) or a finger to gently tease the petals. That's it! Make as many as you wish.
    You can set these aside to put on your cake if you wish
    Enlarge Picture of flaring the chocolate petals

    47. Bigger Roses: Take one of the whole circles. Remember, if it's not as thin as you want it, just squash it with your finger before you use your blade to remove it from the tile.
    Gently roll this circle into a thin cone shape as shown. You will be layering petals around this central core.
    Enlarge Picture of making larger miniature roses

    TIP: The most important thing to remember about making the chocolate roses: Arrange the petals to sit gradually higher and higher above the center, People tend to either keep all the petals at the same height as the center, or they wind up placing the petals below the center making the rose look more like a pine cone !

    48.Place the second circle on the core, making sure that this petal is slightly higher than the center as in the picture.
    Enlarge Picture of overlapping the petals on the miniature roses

    49. As you add petals, be sure to go in the same direction each time, slightly overlapping each one, and placing them each a little higher than the last. I outlined the petals for you to hopefully illustrate this.
    Enlarge Picture of adding petals to the miniature roses

    50. Continue to add petals, remembering the rules above.
    Enlarge Picture of continue adding petals

    51. You can start to flare your petals a little at this point. Use your fingers, a toothpick, or a pin to gently flare them out. To get that little point in the petal I use two fingers - I hold the rose in my left hand and use my thumb and index finger to make the flare.
    Enlarge Picture of continue flaring the rose petals

    52. Continue to add petals and flare them. You can add as many petals as you wish, just make sure your rose is relatively symmetrical. When your rose is done, just crimp the bottom into a point with your fingers to seal everything. You can make as many roses as you wish - if your first roses look squished, don't worry - just keep practicing. This is one skill that the more you do it, the better you'll get.
    Enlarge Picture of adding even more rose petals

    53.The finished rose effect
    If you want to use these to decorate your cake, just set them aside.
    Enlarge Picture of the finished rose effect

    54. Back to the Cake
    When your cake comes out of the oven, it will be time to ice the top. Just be sure to let it cool.
    Do not turn your oven off!
    Let your cake cool off before putting on the icing so it doesn't melt!
    Enlarge Picture of taking the cake out of the oven.

    55. Using a toothpick (cocktail stick) spread the icing on the top of your cake.
    Enlarge Picture of spreading the cake icing.

    56. Spread the icing over the entire top - making sure that the icing doesn't drip over the cut or textured surface.
    Enlarge Picture of spreading the top icing.

    57. Put enough icing on so you can play around and make some swirls. Put your cake back on the baking tile. If you want to add some of your roses you can do that now
    You don't have to add roses if you don't want to. If you do, trim off the point on the bottom of your rose so that it sits well in the icing.
    Enlarge Picture of swirling cake icing

    58. Time to ice the cake slice

    Enlarge Picture of ice cake slice

    59. You'll want to ice the top and side of your slices now too!
    We are not icing the sides of the cake right now because it is easier to do that after the top has set. It's MUCH less messy! Bake your cake for about 15 minutes to set the top. If you want to put some of the icing in a bowl I have some pictures coming up.
    Enlarge Picture of icing the slice

    60. This is optional!! If you have a bowl handy you can make yourself a messy icing bowl. Just add some with your toothpick - stir it around, and drip some over the sides. If you have a spoon you can add it now too.
    Enlarge Picture of a messy icing bowl

    TIP: Easy Piping Practice.
    The piping is done after the cake is baked and the icing is set. If you absolutely have to you can bake your cake again (for example if you have to repair something) - let the modeling paste or Texture Magic dry before you re-bake your cake or it might bubble in the oven.



    61. Optional
    Starting with a glue syringe is nice because it is easy to hold on to. Fill your glue syringe with either Delta Texture Magic, or use the following: Put some modeling paste in a disposable cup and add a enough acrylic paint to color it in your favorite icing flavor. It should hold a peak, if it doesn't you can add some cornstarch to it. Stir with one of your craft sticks, and if you used cornstarch be sure to get all of the lumps out so it will go through the syringe. I find it easiest to hold the syringe as shown whenever possible.
    Enlarge pictureglue syringe

    62. A simple way to start is to just squirt some straight lines of icing on the tile to see how the syringe feels. When you are comfortable, just wipe them off. To make a line of "connected dots" that you can put on the edge of a cake start by gently pressing on the syringe plunger then releasing. Press on the plunger gently to make a small dot, release the pressure, then move the syringe a tiny bit to where you want the next dot. Try to make a line of these as illustrated.
    Enlarge Picture of a using the syringe to pipe

    63. If your hand shakes, stabilize the glue syringe with your other hand. This will make it much easier to control where the icing goes! Continue to practice making lines of connected dots - if you're having trouble -practice. I'm still not super good at it either, but I can fake it well enough When you're done, just wipe off your tile.
    Enlarge Picture of a controlling the syringe

    TIP: Delta Texture Magic can be stored in your syringe if you put an air tight seal on the end of it.
    Modeling paste can also, but you might need to stick a pin in the tip of your syringe to get it flowing again when you use it next.



    64. When I'm decorating a cake I hold the syringe like this. You should do whatever is most comfortable for you.
    Enlarge Picture of a how to hold the syringe

    65.You can use this technique to decorate the bottom of your cake.
    Enlarge Picture of a how to decorate the bottom of the cake

    66.Professionals use a turntable to pipe icing on big cakes. You might have a tiny one that you can use, but I don't so I had to come up with my own "spinner'. Take a chunk of scrap clay and attach it to the bottom of your cake as shown. Stick a toothpick into the bottom of the scrap clay to use as a handle. You can hold this in one hand to slowly spin your cake, while you pipe icing with the other. Enlarge Picture of a how to make a makeshift cake spinner

    67. Practice making a line of dots on the top of your dummy cake (if you made one). Just remember that since this cake is baked, if you mess up just wipe it off and start again.
    Enlarge Picture of a practising to ice the cake

    TIP: When you feel comfortable with the syringe you can try using a pastry bag and tip. I buy the Wilton disposable plastic icing bags. The tips that you can use for miniatures are the Wilton open star tip #13, and the #1 circle tip. Ateco also makes really small star tips.
    You can buy these from sugar craft You just have to be careful because they tend to clog up easily.



    68. If you're having problems piping the cake:
    The simple method of "fake piping": roll a thin snake of your icing color. Make sure it's even or it will look artificial.
    Enlarge Picture of the lazy icing method

    69. Use a ball ended tool or a blunt toothpick to attach the snake to the bottom of your cake in sort of a zig zag fashion - poke the clay near the bottom edge of the snake, then near the top edge to make a "ruffle"
    Enlarge Picture of using ball ended tool to texture

    70. Continue icing all the way around.
    Enlarge Picture of continue icing the cake

    71. closeup of cake icing texturing
    Remember - you don't have to bake Modeling Paste or Texture Magic. You do have to bake this.
    Enlarge Picture of icing closeup

    72. Resume making the cake
    Hold your cake as shown.
    Enlarge Picture of holding the miniature cake.

    73. Using the toothpick, ice the sides of your cake - make sure you fill in any uneven spots where the layers come together.
    Make some swirls, then put your cake back in the oven for the final baking - 15 to 20 minutes should do it.
    Enlarge Picture of icing the sides of the cake

    74. When your cake is finished you can pipe decorations on it, or just leave it plain like I did.
    Find a pretty plate, doily, and a knife. Don't forget to put some crumbs on the plate too! That's it! If you'd like to add a bit of shine to your icing, let your cake cool and paint it with some acrylic varnish. I like to use a satin finish so it isn't too shiny.
    Enlarge Picture of finished miniature cake
    Woman of short-lived passions

  5. #5
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
    Bài viết
    3,423
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Making Miniature Leather Shoes
    by Susan Cobb


    Materials Needed:
    • Premo or Sculpey III Clay in Light Brown or Brown
      Note: Amount of clay needed depends on doll size-for a 1:12 doll; 1/2 of a 2oz. package is adequate.
    • Stiff Bristled Nylon Art Brush
    • Sculpting Tools
      -- Large Dull Craft Needle
      -- Smaller Dull Tip Craft Needle
      -- Sharp Tip Craft Needle
    • Brown Embroidery Floss
    • E6000 Industrial Glue or Aileen's Tacky Glue
    • Scissors





    1. Start with a "shooter marble" large size ball of clay. I have used a half and half mix of Premo's Burnt Amber & Premo Gold. Mix and condition your clay.
    Enlarge Picture to determine size to start with.


    2. Here is the clay ball, after being mixed and worked to condition it. Conditioning the clay evenly distributes the plasticizers in the clay and allows it to be more elastic, easily workable,
    and produces even curing.
    Enlarge Picture of conditioned clay.


    3. Divide the clay ball in half.
    Enlarge Picture of two divided clay balls.


    4. Now divide these balls into half again. You should now have 4 smaller balls of clay. Set two of the
    smaller balls aside, these will be used to make the second shoe in your pair.
    Enlarge Picture of four smaller balls.


    5. Using one of the remaining balls, form a basic foot shape. You can make a paper template to help you
    determine the correct size and shape of your shoe.
    Enlarge Picture forming a basic foot shape.

    6. Here is a picture of the craft needles that I use to sculpt. You will need the sharp and largest blunt needle pictured for this project.
    Enlarge Picture of the craft needles for sculpting detail.

    7. Use the sharp tip needle to etch a line around the shoe shaped piece of clay. This will create the sole of the shoe.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to create sole of shoe.

    8. Use a blunt tip needle to indent the opening of the shoe.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to create shoe opening.

    9. This is what your shoe should look like so far.
    Enlarge Picture of shoe so far.

    10. Using another of the marble sized balls, pinch off two (2) large pea sized balls; then two (2) smaller pea sized balls. You will have a small remainder scrap piece left.
    Enlarge Picture of more small balls of clay.

    TIP:
    Now you have the base of your shoe, at this point if I was making the shoe to fit on a doll, I would add the doll leg and sock (with armature wire inserted) into the shoe opening, so the shoe could bake directly onto the doll's leg, creating a stronger bond. But, this is only going to be a "display" shoe for your doll's house.


    11. Squash one of the smaller balls flat (about 1/8" thick) and flatten one edge to form a heel shape.
    Enlarge Picture of flattened ball.

    12. Edge view of newly formed heel.
    Enlarge Picture of edge view.

    13. Gently press your newly formed heel onto the sole of the shoe, being careful to not press too hard or you will squash your shoe top. Maintain the heel shape by gently reshaping the heel with your finger or the side of the one of your needles as you seal the clay pieces together.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to press sole to shoe base.

    14. Bottom view of the heel attached to the shoe sole.
    Enlarge Picture to view heel to shoe.

    15. Using your sharp tip needle, make multiple scores along the side of the heel, pressing gently/slightly toward the shoe. This will serve a dual purpose: 1) this will seal the heel to the shoe and 2) add texture to the heel.
    Enlarge Picture of scored lines along the heel.

    16. Soften the marks on the edge of the heel by gently smoothing it with your finger.
    Enlarge Picture of more small balls of clay.

    17. Hold the shoe by the sides at the heel end with one hand. Make a small indent in the side of the shoe, in front of the heel. Redraw the sole line if you smudge it.
    Enlarge Picture of side indent.

    18. Use the remaining small pea sized ball to form the shoe tongue. Squash the ball flat and elongate the piece into an oval shape. It should be approximately 5/8 inches long by 1/2 inch wide. Place it on the top of the shoe.
    Enlarge Picture of shoe tongue.

    19. Use the side of your sharp tipped needle to make two (2) indents across the toe end of the shoe tongue.
    Enlarge Picture of defining the tongue.

    20. Side view of the shoe so far.
    Enlarge Picture of work in progress.

    21. Use your finger to curve the shoe opening end of the tongue slightly upward. Smooth down both sides of the tongue, pressing gently to seal it to the shoe sides.
    Enlarge Picture of top of tongue.

    22. Divide one of the remaining pea sized balls in half. Squash one of these smaller balls flat and form a triangle shape.
    Enlarge Picture of small balls.

    23. Then gently flatten the top point of the triangle. The triangle should be approximately 1/16 inch thick (or less, get it as thin as possible). It should measure approximately 1/2 inch across the longest flat edge (bottom side) by 1/2 inch from the flattened tip top of the bottom edge.
    Enlarge Picture of triangle measurements.

    24. Place the clay on the shoe, with the longest side on the shoe/sole seam line. The front should end where the toe side of the shoe tongue ends. The back should end where the tongue starts to curl upward at the shoe opening.
    Enlarge Picture showing shoe flap.

    25. Front view illustrates where the piece should be in relation to the shoe tongue.
    Enlarge Picture showing shoe flap and tongue.

    26. Another view of placement.
    Enlarge Picture showing another view.

    27. Fold the clay piece down over onto the top of the shoe. Press the edges gently onto the shoe. Use your sharp tip needle to trace a line 1/16 inch along the outer edge of the clay side piece.
    Enlarge Picture folding flap.

    28. Repeat this step for the other side of the shoe using the remaining
    pea sized ball of clay.
    Enlarge Picture showing both flaps.

    29. Use your sharp tip needle to poke holes in the shoe for the laces.
    Enlarge Picture showing lace holes.

    30. Use your sharp tip needle again to etch a line in the clay from the tongue side of the shoe opening around the back tot he other side of the shoe.
    Enlarge Picture showing defined edge of shoe.

    31. We are ready to add color depth to the shoe using art chalks.
    Enlarge Picture of art chalks.

    TIP:
    If you find that the clay is getting soft, periodically put the clay in the refrigerator for short periods to cool it down between steps.


    32. Use the side of your sharp tip needle to make small lines at wear points on the shoe. This will give the shoes a lived in look once the chalks have been applied.
    Enlarge Picture showing wear points.

    TIP:
    If you are only making display shoes and not to be actually worn by a doll, you can also darken the inside of the shoe openings with dark color chalk, which will give the shoe opening the illusion of depth.


    33. Lightly brush dark brown and black chalk into the creases and across the wear marked areas to give the shoes the patina of real leather.
    Enlarge Picture showing applied chalks.

    34. Use the black chalk to darken the sole and heel areas of the shoe.
    Enlarge Picture showing applied chalk to bottom of shoe.

    TIP:
    The chalk does not need to be sealed since it is baked into the clay. However, if you want a shiny shoe finish you can seal the shoe with Sculpey glaze.


    35. Now bake your shoe according to the clay manufacturer's recommendations for the type of clay you are using. My shoe needed to bake for approximately 40 minutes at 275 degrees.
    Enlarge Picture showing preparation for baking.

    36. While the clay is baking, separate out a single strand of embroidery floss to use as a lace.
    Enlarge Picture showing embroidery floss.

    37. You can use e6000, Aileen's Tacky glue or any super glue to attach the lace strands onto the shoe. Have several sharp toothpicks handy for this step.
    Enlarge Picture of glue.

    TIP:
    I just want to add here-if you use super glue, make sure it is one that you have pre-tested on the type of clay you are working with. Some super glue will react with clay with nasty results. I really like the E6000 glue for an all around glue.


    38. Cut several short lengths of the floss thread. Apply a little glue to one end; using a sharp toothpick poke the end of the thread down into the pre-drilled lace hole in the shoe. Measure the distance to the opposite heel and trim the thread to length. Apply glue to the remaining lace end and poke the tip into the corresponding lace hole. Tie a bow with a length of the floss thread and apply glue to the back of the bow. Attach the bow to the shoe.
    Enlarge Picture of applied laces.

    TIP:
    If you have trouble getting the laces placed, try putting a little bit of glue on the tip of the lace, then give it a twist to stiffen it the floss. Add a tiny spot more glue and stick it in the lace hole that way. Then tip the other side of the lace with glue and use tweezers to guide it into the other side of the shoe.


    39. You have now finished a laced leather look clay doll shoe to display in your doll house. Repeat the same steps to make and finish the other shoe now.
    Enlarge Picture of finished shoe.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  6. #6
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
    Bài viết
    3,423
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Making a Miniature Lampshade
    by Pat Carlson


    Materials Needed:
    • Your printer
    • One piece of heavy cardstock
    • One piece of decorative paper - 3-1/2" x 2-1/2" (such as gift wrap or colored bond paper)
    • Ruler
    • Needle tool or sharp instrument for scoring
    • Scissors or craft knife
    • Glue Stick
    • Tacky glue
    • One round toothpick
    • One small bead








    Close-up images of materials needed.
    Enlarge Picture of supplies needed.





    1. Click enlarge image, then print the following lampshade template on cardstock.
    Enlarge Picture of lampshade template

    2. Click enlarge image, then print the following harp template on cardstock.
    Enlarge Picture of Harp Template

    3. Score the lampshade template along all black lines.
    Enlarge Picture of scoring the template

    TIP:
    When selecting your decorative paper, you can use parchment paper, however, you may find it a bit "floppy"; you can strengthen it with Modge Podge or something after the shade is formed. Wallpaper is also a good material for making lampshades.


    4. Using the Glue Stick, glue the back of the lampshade template to the back of your decorative paper.
    Cut through template and decorative paper on red lines.
    Enlarge Picture of gluing and cutting

    5. Gently fold along score lines toward the template side to form the shade.
    Enlarge Picture of folding the score lines


    6. Apply glue to decorative side of Tab A, then glue to the inside of Tab B
    Enlarge Picture of gluing tab A to tab B

    7. Cut harp from cardstock along red lines.
    Enlarge Picture of where to cut harp template

    8. Using the needle tool, poke a hole through the center of the harp.
    Enlarge Picture using the needle tool

    9. Score harp along black lines, then bend harp points down along score lines.
    Enlarge Picture to show scoring and bending of harp points

    10. Insert the toothpick into the hole in the center of the harp. Stick it through about 3/4" and glue in place. Put a small dab of glue (Aileen's tacky glue works best) on each point of the harp.
    Enlarge Picture of the toothpick into harp.

    11. With the points of the harp pointing down, insert the harp into the shade, gently pushing the glued points against the inside of the lampshade, making sure the harp sits evenly against the inside of the shade.
    Enlarge Picture of Insert harp into shade.

    12. Glue bead onto point of toothpick.
    Enlarge Picture of finished shade.

    TIP:
    For a more finished look to your lampshade, paint the toothpick and the inside of the shade.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  7. #7
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
    Bài viết
    3,423
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Learn To TapeWire
    a Dollhouse or Roombox
    by Amanda Thomas


    Materials Needed:
    • Cir-Kit Starter Wiring Kit CK101 which includes:
      -Cir-Kit Transformer
      -Lead-In Switch
      -Tapewire
      -Junction Splice: Cir-Kit CK1007
      -Test Probe: Cir-Kit CK204
      -Brass Brads: Cir-Kit CK1021
    • Roombox or Dollhouse Note
    • Brad Placement Tool: Cir-Kit CK1054
    • Wall Plug Outlet
    • 12 volt light or lamp (with plug still attached)
    • Pencil
    • Scissors
    • Screwdriver and Hammer
    • Measuring Tape
    • An Extension Cord (if you are not near a power outlet this is a must)
    • Magnifying Glass
    • Fine Wire Strippers Note
    • Small Hollow Eyelets Note








    Close-up images of materials needed.
    Enlarge Picture of supplies needed.





    1. You will need to decide where to place the junction splice. The junction splice is the connection between your roombox and your real life wall socket. Where you decide to place the junction splice will determine where the cord to your power switch will be.
    Enlarge Picture for planning ahead.
    TIP:
    It is best to place the junction splice outside of the house on the foundation, if possible. This way it does not interfere with the furniture within the dolls house. If you can't do this, try to place it nearest an outside wall and on the floor or in a corner. This is usually the easiest way to hide the connection although if it is inside the house it will be more apparent when viewing.


    2. Plan where you want to place your light wall plug, pencil an "X" to mark the spot on the outside.
    Enlarge Picture showing a wiring path.

    3. Once you've decided where you'd like to place your lights and your junction splice and have marked both places, you can begin to layout your plans for tapewiring the roombox. Using your pencil begin drawing a path from the junction splice area to the first side edge of the roombox or dollhouse.
    Enlarge Picture showing a wiring path.

    4. Continue around any corners; maintain the straight lines with as few turns as possible, for you will need to make a connection at each turn.
    Enlarge Picture showing a wiring path.

    5. Continue into the room, still in a straight line as indicated.
    Enlarge Picture drawing path.


    6. Draw a circle where the lines turn. This will be important later on.
    Enlarge Picture to show brad points.


    7. Determine where you want to install the wall plug. Mark the location with an "X" that will identify your inside plug.
    Enlarge Picture identifying where you will place outlet.

    8. Once you've drawn a path you can measure each straight line.
    Enlarge Picture on where to measure.

    9. Cut a length of tapewire at least 2 inches longer than your measurement. This will give some room for error.
    Enlarge Picture showing cutting tapewire lengths.

    10. I usually cut mine 4-6 inches longer as it will help if there is a knot in the wood and I need to pound a nail into a different spot. Remember, the tape will go over corners, as long as it is laid in a straight path.
    Enlarge Picture extra cut lengths.

    11. Once all the lengths have been cut, remove the paper backing from the first tapewire and place the tape as smoothly as possible onto the first corresponding path drawn in pencil.
    Enlarge Picture of placing the first tapewire.

    12. Remove the backing from the second length. Remember where two pieces meet, cross them in a perpendicular manner one over top of the other. These will be your connections and will be addressed in later steps.
    Enlarge Picture of second length of tapewire.

    13. Remove the backing from the third length. Again, remembering to cross the tape over the last length.
    Enlarge Picture of third length of tapewire.

    TIP:
    Remember that spot we chose for our junction splice? It's almost time to use it. Before we do this we'll need to hook up to some power. And before we can hook up the juice, we've got to get our transformers sorted.


    14. Remove your transformer from the package and lay it plug side up on the table. Each transformer is a bit different, but they all work the same way.
    Enlarge Picture of 12v transformer.

    15. There are two screws on the transformer and we need to loosen them (but not remove them!) using the screwdriver.
    Enlarge Picture of location of screws on transformer.

    16. Remove your lead-in switch from the package.
    Enlarge Picture of 12v lead-in switch.

    17. This switch has two ends, one with a pair of dull pins (that look like big needle ends) and one with a split wire with two arm-like pairs of prongs on it. We're going to be using the end with the prongs.
    Enlarge Picture to identifying the prongs.

    18. Slide the left prong under the loose screw and then tighten the screw using your screwdriver (if there is a slant, make it so the wires slant upward).
    Enlarge Picture to showing left wire to 12v transformer.

    19. Slide the right prong under the other loose screw and tighten.
    Enlarge Picture of showing right wire to 12v transformer.

    TIP:
    Once the prongs are attached, they will bring electricity through the transformer when plugged into the outlet. When we plug in the main transformer be sure NOT to touch the dull pins with your fingers. It's not much of a current, but it's enough to alarm you. Please be careful when working with electricity. Make sure your extension cord is not going to be a trip hazard.


    20. Now it is time to use the junction splice. The dull prongs on the end of the lead-in switch wire are the prongs that connect into the little holes in the side of junction splice. The junction splice should come pre-packaged, attached to a piece of Styrofoam. Be careful when removing it from the foam, the prongs underneath are extremely sharp.
    Enlarge Picture of Cir-Kit Concepts 12v Junction Splice.

    21. There is a small screw in some junction splices; loosen if you do have a screw in the splice. Make sure that the splice is facing the direction you would like, as the two holes in the end will connect to your transformer. Now place each prong over one strip of the tapewire, one prong into the blue coloured strip and one into the peach coloured strip.
    Enlarge Picture of location of splice screw.

    22. Push firmly on the junction splice and the prongs will sink a bit into the wood. Only use finger pressure at this stage, do not hammer the splice into the wood yet.
    Enlarge Picture of sinking splice into wood

    23. Remove your Test Probe from the packaging and take off the cap. Once again, two very sharp prongs are exposed so please be careful.
    Enlarge Picture of 12v test probe.

    24. Insert the prongs into your first strip of tapewire in the dollhouse or roombox. Place them just like you placed the junction splice, but a bit further along that same exact piece of tapewire.
    Enlarge Picture showing placement.

    25. Plug your lead-in switch into your junction splice (I have removed my junction splice in the photo to make this process more visible).
    Enlarge Picture joining lead-in switch with splice.

    26. You will be able to plug it in without removing your junction splice, but if it falls out don't worry, you can always push it back into the wood).
    Enlarge Picture showing junction splice.

    27. Plug your transformer into your real life wall socket or into your extension cord.
    Enlarge Picture showing 12v transformer

    28. Flick the switch on the lead-in switch wire to turn it from on to off and on again.
    Enlarge Picture showing on/off of 12v lead-in switch.

    29. If the test probe light is blinking, your junction splice has been placed well enough to make contact with the tapewire.

    If the light inside the test probe is not lit, try wiggling the test probe. Try moving the test probe farther along the strip. If it's still not lighting it could be that the junction splice is not making contact with the tapewire. Your test probe should be lit before moving on to the next step.
    Enlarge Picture testing 12v current.

    TIP:
    At this point, if you're not getting any light into your Test Probe it could be a number of things. For one, it could be that the Test Probe is broken (this is not usually very likely), or it could be the transformer (you can test this by putting the prongs of your Test Probe onto the dull pins of the lead-in switch and flicking the switch on and off to see if the Test Probe lights up).


    30. Now that the test probe is lit, unplug the lead-in switch from the junction splice. Use your hammer and center it (lightly) onto the junction splice to hammer it in. If your junction splice has a screw in it, you might wish to remove it before hammering the splice into the wall. Put the screw back in later for added stability.
    Enlarge Picture to hammer in splice.

    TIP:
    Plug the lead-in switch back into the junction splice and test the tapewire with the Test Probe again. If it is still lit, congratulations, you're halfway to the finish!


    31. Now is the time to use our all-important brad tool, and this is possibly the most frustrating part of miniature lighting. Don't get discouraged, it may take a little while to get it right, but the most important thing is we've got power in our dollhouse already.
    Enlarge Picture showing the brad tool.

    32. Unplug the lead-in switch again. Remove the Test Probe. Gather a brad nail and your brad tool.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to use brad tool.

    33. Take a brad nail and place it between the prongs on the brad tool.
    Enlarge Picture showing placement of brad on tool.

    34. Push the brad nail into the area where the tapewire crosses paths. Blue crosses blue.
    Enlarge Picture of pushing in first brad.

    35. Press down firmly, the brad nail should partially sink into the wood.
    Enlarge Picture of inserting brad nail.

    36. Carefully slide the tool back away from the brad.
    Enlarge Picture of removing tool.

    37. Pulling back too quickly or too hard will pull the brad out.
    Enlarge Picture showing movement of removal.

    38. Hammer the brad in the rest of the way.
    Enlarge Picture showing hammered brad.

    39. Retrieve another brad. This time you will be pressing the brad into the copper/pinkish side of the tapewire, directly opposite diagonally.
    Enlarge Picture showing placement of second brad.

    40. Hammer the second brad in the rest of the way.
    Enlarge Picture of second brad.

    41. Now you have two brads inserted into the tapewire. Electrical current is broken at piece of tapewire; inserting the brads as shown, conducts electrical current.
    Enlarge Picture showing first brads completed.

    42. Retrieve the test probe. Insert the probe a little ahead of the inserted brads, directly into the tapewire. Plug in your lead-in switch and toggle it from off to on again.

    If you've got light, you've correctly placed your two (2) brads.
    Enlarge Picture showing probe and testing.

    TIP:
    If your test probe is not lighting up, your brads might be in the wrong place. If you see sparks, immediately turn off your power! Your brads are in the wrong place and you're shorting the circuit. Remember, the brads should only go diagonally across the place where blue meets blue and copper/pink meets copper/pink. Don't put brads on all 4 cross points.

    If you're still not getting any light and you've got the brads in the right places, try putting a second brad in on each location. It might be that the first brad isn't making the connection very well.


    43. Unplug the lead-in switch again. Remove the Test Probe. Move up to the next tapewire crossing. Repeat steps 33-42 above.
    Enlarge Picture outlining next steps.

    TIP:
    Some miniaturists substitute eyelets for brads. I find that I tend to bend the eyelets and so I prefer placing the brads. Don't be discouraged if you have trouble getting the brads to sink in. It may take many practice sessions to develop a brad placing technique. If you think eyelets will work better for you, please feel free to use them.


    44. Now you have two brads inserted into the second tapewire crossing. You have tested the electrical current with your test probe on one side, now test on the other side.

    Unplug your transformer, leaving in the test probe.
    Enlarge Picture showing testing.

    45. Remove a wall plug outlet from the package and choose a place where you'd like the outlet for the table lamp to be. For example, you may wish to pound this in close to the place where you'll be placing a miniature table.
    Enlarge Picture of wall plug outlet.

    TIP:
    We'll be placing an electrical Wall Plug Outlet for the table lamp (you can also use this same method for ceiling or wall lamps if you don't mind the electric wall plug outlet showing).

    Placing the electric wall plug outlets allows you to plug in any 12 volt light with a male plug on it. Most lights come with male plugs already built in and they will easily plug into these wall plug outlets so you can swap your table lamps whenever you feel the need.


    46. In order to test the wall outlet connection as we place it, please turn on your transformer and then plug in a miniature light into your wall plug outlet.
    Enlarge Picture of plugging in 12v transformer.

    47. The wall plug outlet works almost exactly like the junction splice does. Each prong goes into one color of the tape. One prong goes into the blue, one prong into the copper/pink side. Press the wall plug outlet pins up to your tapewire (do not push at this stage) and the light will light up. This insures that you have made good contact before moving forward.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to test outlet.

    48. Remove the light plug from the wall outlet.
    Enlarge Picture of how to remove light plug.

    49. Press the wall outlet in as far as you can with your fingers.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to finger press outlet.

    50. Retrieve your hammer.
    Enlarge Picture using the hammer.

    51. Gently hammer the wall outlet into the wood. Hammering too hard can break the wall outlet.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to hammer wall outlet.

    52. Once your wall plug outlet is inserted into the tapewire, plug the miniature light into the wall plug outlet. It should light up.
    Enlarge Picture showing light fixture plugged in.

    TIP:
    If the light is not turning on, check the bulb in your light, make sure it is screwed in tightly (if it is a screw based bulb), check that your lead-in switch is switched on, and check that the strip of tapewire the Wall Plug Outlet is plugged into is working (using your Test Probe).


    In the future, you can wallpaper your roombox or dollhouse over the tapewire. Then you can use the test probe to find the tapewire and then pound your outlet over the wallpaper. Some miniaturists prefer to cut a hole in the wallpaper and slip it over the plugs.




    Advanced Lighting Options:

    If you're comfortable with the steps we've already completed, and you want to make your dollhouse lights flush to the walls or ceilings without using any wall plug outlets.


    53. Remove the plug from the light wire, either by cutting the plug off or you can pull out the plug-in pins. This will leave you with two-wires. Strip each wire on your light.
    Enlarge Picture of stripping 12v wire.
    54. Retrieve your eyelet brads.
    Enlarge Picture of 12v brads.
    55. Wrap each set of wires around an eyelet.
    Enlarge Picture showing wrapped eyelets.
    56. Identify where you want to place your light fixture. Then insert the eyelet the same way you would a brad nail. One on each side of the tapewire. In this picture, I am placing it closest to the camera for ease of viewing.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to insert outlet.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  8. #8
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
    Bài viết
    3,423
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Learn To Make
    Fantasy Film Fairy Wings
    by Deb Wood


    Materials Needed:
    • Pattern (shown below)
    • Colored Wire - 24 ga. (0.5-0.6mm) (or plain wire)
      I use Fun Wire, it is plastic coated and works so well for this
      - as the glue really grabs onto it
    • 1 Piece Of Heavy Stem Wire, Preferably Plain, 16 Gauge (1.29mm) Or 18 Gauge (1.02mm)
    • Fantasy Film
    • 3D Lacquer In Clear Or Clear Gallery Glass
    • Gem Tac Glue Or Ultimate Glue By Crafter's Pick Or A Similar Type White Glue
    • Art Glitter or Prisma Glitter (Optional)
    • Delta Ceramcoat Varnish in Matte or Satin (Optional)
    • Votive Candle
    • Tools:
      Wire Cutters
      Medium Paint Brush
      Tape
      Scissors
      Tweezers








    Close-up images of materials needed.
    Enlarge Picture of supplies need.





    1. Enlarge pattern image (its going to appear large, you'll need to scroll to close the image). Copy to your computer, right click, save image; then print out in any size you need.
    Enlarge Picture to enlarge pattern.
    TIP
    The wings pattern are intended for a fairy about 6" tall, you can rescale the pattern to any size. Just make sure you use finer wires then too.





    2. Begin by cutting the heavy wire, bend it to follow the pattern's main stem. This is the part of the wing that will go into the fairy's back. It gives good support and superior strength.
    Enlarge Picture of wire to pattern.

    3. Continue cutting the other or veining wires, bending them to follow the curved lines in the pattern.
    Enlarge Picture showing pattern and bent wires.

    4. It's important to make sure the wires lay flat. I cut the wires for both wings at one time and lay them out in order.
    Enlarge Picture showing flattened wires.

    TIP
    This wire comes in many colors. It is really important to select the right color wire for the wings you are making. Since the film is clear, with only an overlay of color, the wires are actually the main color you will see in your wings. So, to choose black wire makes the veining stand out-to use silver would make the veining recede.

    I also like to use a bright color, say pink, if the fairy's garments are also bright.




    5. Cut two pieces of the Fantasy Film and tape them down on top of your pattern. (I used Spring Morning Fantasy Film, although you wouldn't know it by the colors my camera picked up).
    Enlarge Picture showing fantasy film preparation.


    6. Holding the wires with a tweezers, apply glue to the underside of each wire.
    Enlarge Picture show how to apply glue.


    7. Carefully place the wire with the glue onto the film, following the pattern. This can be a bit touchy, you don't want to get excess glue on the film if you can help it. Try to butt the cut ends up against one another. This will give the wings a finished look.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to place wire onto film.

    TIP
    I only apply glue to the side of the wire that will be in contact with the film. My wings are only one layer of film. I know some people do double layers, with wire in between. Never had much luck with that...too many air pockets.




    8. As the glue is setting up, press down on the wires to make sure they have adhered evenly.
    Enlarge Picture showing to show even glue method.

    9. One side is done! Now repeat Steps 2-8, for the other wing.
    Enlarge Picture on repeating Steps 2-8.

    10. Add an extra bead of glue where all the wires come together with the main stem of the frame. This will help strengthen and reinforce this area.
    Enlarge Picture on how to strengthen and reinforce wings.

    11. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly. This will take a couple hours at least.
    Enlarge Picture about dry stage.

    12. Once the glue is completely dry, cut around the pattern, leaving about 1/4" extra film around the edges.
    Enlarge Picture showing cutting away excess film.

    13. Now here comes the fun part! Now for the shrinking of the film and that all important votive candle!!!!!

    Fantasy Film will shrink and strengthen with heat. The more heat it is exposed to the more the color comes alive. You must be careful because too much heat will melt it away, or remove the color, leaving a haze of white.
    Enlarge Picture showing the votive candle.

    TIP
    Shut the windows so you don't have any breeze on the candle flame. You want to control this process as much as possible. Also trim the wick on the candle so it's not too large a flame.





    14. Hold your hand over the flame to see how high your hand has to be before you feel the heat. Judging by that distance, hold your wing over the flame, about 6 or more inches above it. Holding the wing flat, move the wing around quickly, and watch the film tighten against the wires!
    Enlarge Picture showing how to start shrinking.

    15. Raise and lower the wing to see the colors explode! You will also be able to see where a hole is going to form, first the color becomes very intense, then the hole forms. As I was holding this wing with one hand and trying to take a photo with the other, two large holes appeared, just that quick! Oh well, I'll have to try to match them on the other wing! We must be creative!
    Enlarge Picture on how to create holes.

    16. To sear the edges along the wires, you can go very close to the flame, drawing the edge of the wing along the flame. Be careful not to scorch the wires, however. Go over it twice, rather than too much the first time. To shape the outer jagged edge of the wings, hold them upright and perpendicular to the flame.
    Enlarge Picture on how to sear the edges.

    17. Raise the wings up and down to form the jagged edges.
    Enlarge Picture on searing the tips.

    18. Again, go over it twice rather than melt too much the first time.
    Enlarge Picture to repeat process, if needed.

    19. Lay the wings out and check for symmetry. They don't have to be exact, but close is good! See the holes? I tried to match them as much as I dared! If you melt away too much it does affect the look of the wings. I try not to do that. You might have to start over, so go slowly and be careful.
    Enlarge Picture on how to determine symmetry.

    20. Another view to determine wings symmetry.
    Enlarge Picture showing another view.

    21. I did a little more melting of the edges to make them more uniform.
    Enlarge Picture showing final searing.

    22. Now to seal the wings. This step serves two purposes. Most importantly, it bonds the wires to the film and it adds strength to the overall structure of the wings. In this step I used clear Gallery Glass, but you can also use 3D Lacquer. You want to be sure to use a product that will stick to the film. Some varnishes won't. Do a test if you are using something other than what is suggested here.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to seal the wings.

    TIP
    Clean your brush immediately in soapy water. Rinse well.




    23. Brush the product on the wired side of the wings. Be sure to have a good deal of the product along the wires. Let it pool there. This will hold the wires securely. Keep in mind that 3D Lacquer dries much more quickly than the Gallery Glass.
    Enlarge Picture showing how where to pool the sealant.

    TIP
    Before proceeding to the next step please read. If you are using 3D Lacquer, do not put it under a heat light! It will bubble and cause the lacquer to become cloudy. (I learned this the hard way).




    24. To speed up the drying time of the Gallery Glass, I placed the wings on a ceramic tile and then suspended a reflector light and 100W bulb over them, (see note below). There is about 8" of space above the wings. They dried in about three hours. The ceramic tile helps to distribute and hold the heat. Drying without the light can take 12 hours or more.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to dry the wings.

    TIP
    On these wings I didn't add an overall glitter, but you can do that now. Simply sprinkle glitter into the wet sealer. You'll want to be careful though, as the glitter is hard to control. A light application looks best. I prefer to add the glitter after the wings are thoroughly dry and I apply it using the Ceramcoat Matte or Satin varnish.




    25. Apply a heavy bead of glue along the main wire.
    Enlarge Picture to prepare to glitter.

    26. Place glue on both sides to cover completely.
    Enlarge Picture where to place glue.

    27. Quickly sprinkle glitter or microbeads on the glue. You can add glitter to some or all of the other wires if you wish.
    Enlarge Picture where to place glue.

    28. Tap off excess, and place upright to dry. I stick the wires into a piece of styrofoam and set aside.
    Enlarge Picture showing where to tap off excess.

    TIP
    You can also add marabou feathers at the base where the wings will go into the fairy's back or embellish as you wish! Do this after you apply the glitter. Such fun!!!

    You can see there is still some Gallery Glass that has not dried completely. It was set up enough for me to handle the wings, and they will be allowed to dry overnight now so that will all be dried clear in a few more hours.




    29. Finished wings, dry and ready for use.
    Enlarge Picture showing finished wings.

    TIP
    This photo above was taken when the wings were completely dry, in natural daytime lighting. See the color explode? Now you can see why we love that Fantasy Film!! The deeper colors are achieved with more intense heat as described above.




    31. Completed wings on my fairy sculpt!
    Enlarge Picture showing completed wings on fairy.

    FINAL TIP
    If you use Gallery Glass to seal your wings, be careful how you pack your fairy for shipping. Customers have told me that they have received fairies from other artists with all kinds of poly batting fuzz stuck to the wings. I usually don't permanently attach the wings to my sculptures, so I am able to wrap the wings separately in tissue before packing. However, I think that parchment paper, then tissue might help this issue, particularly in the summer heat. Something to keep in mind.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  9. #9
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
    Bài viết
    3,423
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Learn To Sculpt Hands
    From Polymer Clay
    For your Doll or Fairy
    by Tony Rice


    Materials Needed:
    • One or two ounces of your favorite Polymer Clay
    • Needle Tool
    • Craft Knife: X-Acto, etc.
    • Wire Loop Tool
    • Small Spatula Tools
    • Small Filbert Brush for Blending








    Close-up images of materials needed.
    Enlarge Picture of basic supplies.




    Overview
    There are dozens of methods to sculpt hands. This is one of the easiest and can be modified in scale up and down fairly easily, this pair of hands is sculpted in 1/12th scale.

    Hands are difficult to sculpt accurately because people are so intimately aware of how hands look; their shape, size, proportions, etc. Another reason why hands are difficult to sculpt is mushy clay. It is best to use a firm clay to sculpt hands in order to keep the fingers from wilting and to prevent you from accidentally mushing the details.

    Study pictures of hands, your own hands and look at the hands other sculptors produce. Then practice, practice, practice. A good way to practice is to buy some gray clay of your favorite brand and make hands. Bake the first pair and put them away, then make a dozen or so pairs, kneading them up when you are done. Every dozen or so pairs you sculpt, compare them to the first pair you made and baked. This will help motivate you because you will be able to see yourself improve.





    1. Make two balls of clay, the same size. Use a ruler or calipers to match them up.
    Enlarge Picture showing the size of the balls of clay.
    2. Flatten the balls into ovals. The ovals should be about half the size of the figures face and be slightly wider on one end.
    Enlarge Picture of flattened balls into ovals.

    3. The narrow end will be the wrist, the wider end will be the hands.
    Enlarge Picture showing the wrist & hand ends.

    4. Pinch and twist the corners on the wide end into gently tapered cones, these are the pinky and index fingers. Compare them to each other.
    Enlarge Picture showing the pinky & index fingers.

    5. Pinch some clay off of the wrist end and roll it into tapered cones that will become the middle and ring fingers.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to make remaining fingers.


    TIP
    The clay gets warm from the friction of working it, the heat from your hands, etc. As your hands get stronger from working with clay, I recommend that everyone switch to a firmer clay that is less likely to get mushy and wilted, like Fimo Classic.






    6. Place the fingers on the back of the hand.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to attach fingers.


    7. Blend the fingers into the back of the hand using gentle stroking motions. The convex side of any spoon shaped tool will work for smoothing.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to blend the fingers.

    8. Turn the hands over and blend the fingers into the palm of the hand.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to blend into the palms.

    9. The clay is probably getting warm and is easily dentable now, so be careful! Using a spatula tool blend the clay in between the fingers to hide the seams.
    Enlarge Picture on repeating Steps 2-8.

    10. Smoothing out the seams can deform the hands, so reshape the palms now if you need to.
    Enlarge Picture on how to smooth fingers.

    11. Check the fingers to ensure that they are in proportion to each other. If fingers are too long or too thick, take your hobby knife and trim a bit off the ends. Roll and twist the tip back into shape.
    Enlarge Picture showing proportions.

    Q&A

    Q. How do you handle the clay with out it sticking to the board?

    A. The board I use there in the image is a large ceramic cutting board. A very light dusting of talcum powder will deter any sticking, but be careful, because it will also impede the clay sticking to itself and blending when you need it to do so.






    12. Compare them against one another to ensure that the palm and fingers are the same length, width and thickness.
    Enlarge Picture showing finger and hand comparisons.

    TIP
    Be sure to make a left and a right hand, not two lefts or two rights for the next step!






    13. Pinch some clay off of the wrist end and roll it into a blunt cone. Attach it near the base of the palm. Blend the thumb into the palm and the side of the hand in the same manner you blended the other fingers. Reshape the hands if you deform them during the blending process.
    Enlarge Picture showing how to create the thumbs.

    TIP
    For those having trouble with the clay becoming too warm, try using a can of compressed air (the sort used for cleaning off electronics). If you turn the can upside down and spray, the refrigerant comes out. If you spray your clay with this - only a bit, and quickly, you can cool the clay and harden it somewhat -- making your sculpting easier. The clay will return to it's natural state as it warms up. The longer you spray, the colder it gets, so be quick. Just hit it again if needed.






    14. Take your needle tool gently draw the fingernails into the tips of the fingers.

    There is no shortcut for doing this, so forget it (I have looked for cheats and shortcuts for years, and have never found one that actually worked without creating more problems, like squished clay fingers).
    Enlarge Picture showing how to create fingernails.

    15. Primp the fingertips to make them tip up towards the fingernail. Correct the fingernails if you distorted the details. I usually use a needle tool to scribe the lines in the palm of the hand and along the underside of the fingers. It is easy to go overboard and make pruny hands instead of pretty smooth hands, so moderation is the key! Use you own hand as a reference.

    Pose and bake.
    Enlarge Picture on final steps.
    Woman of short-lived passions

  10. #10
    Vượt ngàn trùng sóng obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan has a reputation beyond repute obaasan's Avatar
    Ngay tham gia
    Aug 2008
    Bài viết
    3,423
    Rep Power
    10

    Re: Hướng dẫn làm đồ chơi thu nhỏ (Miniature Tutorials)

    Learn To Sculpt feet
    From Polymer Clay
    For your Doll or Fairy
    by Tony Rice


    Materials Needed:
    • One or two ounces of your favorite Polymer Clay
    • Needle Tool
    • Craft Knife: X-Acto, etc.
    • Wire Loop Tool
    • Small Spatula Tools
    • Small Filbert Brush for Blending








    Close-up images of materials needed.
    Enlarge picture of basic supplies.




    Overview
    I have tried to present the easiest method for sculpting feet possible. This technique can be modified in scale up and down fairly easily.

    Feet are not as difficult to sculpt accurately as hands are, but they still pose challenges. Mushy clay is a serious enemy of the sculptor. It is best to use a firm clay to sculpt with in order to keep the feet from wilting due to the heat of working the clay and to prevent you from accidentally mushing the details.

    Study pictures of feet, look at your own feet and look at the ways other sculptors create feet. The is no substitute for practice. A good way to practice is to buy some gray clay in your favorite brand and make feet. Bake the first pair and put them away, then make a dozen or so pairs, kneading them up when you are done. Every dozen or so pairs you sculpt, bake them and then compare them to the first pair you made and baked. This will help motivate you because you will be able to see yourself improve.





    1. Make two balls of clay, the same size. Use a ruler or calipers to match them up.
    Enlarge picture showing the size of the balls of clay.
    2. Roll the balls into rods.
    Enlarge picture showing balls shaped as rods.

    3. Flatten the end of the rods into blunt fans. Be sure that the heels are thick and round and that the toe end of the foot is thinner.
    Enlarge picture showing how to flatten.

    4. Compare the feet by holding them together and checking them from different angles.
    Enlarge picture to show comparison.

    5. If they lack symmetry use your hobby knife to trim them until they match.
    Enlarge picture to check symmetry.


    6. Use your thumb, or a round ended tool if you are making a smaller scale to push in the arch of the foot.
    Enlarge picture showing foot arch.


    7. Another angle of the arch.
    Enlarge picture showing another angle.

    TIP

    Q: What differences do you make between male and female feet? Also, child to adult?

    A: Womens feet tend to be smaller than male feet. Women's features and body structures feature curves, whereas men's bodies are more angular. Children's feet tend to be shorter, thicker and more dimpled!






    8. Place the feet with the bottoms down and the toes toward you. Using your hobby knife, slice the toe end to create three even toes. Now divide the two toes toward the small toe in half again. This is a nice easy way to get proportional toes!
    Enlarge picture how to create toes.

    9. Using a loop tool, carve a groove on the bottom of the foot from the big toe clear out to the pinky toe.
    Enlarge picture to show clearing under toes.

    10. Roll the toes between your fingers until the are round and blunt. Let the foot spin around as you roll the toe to prevent it from breaking off.
    Enlarge picture showing how to create round toes.

    11. Check the toes to ensure that they are in proportion to each other. If toes are too long or too thick, take your hobby knife and trim a bit off the ends. Roll and twist the tip back into shape.
    Enlarge picture showing proportions.

    TIP

    Q: My feet are too small. Is there a good way to "squish" the toes rounded with a tool?

    A: If the toes are too small, you can add a tiny ball of clay to the end of each toe and blend it in, then reshape the toe. If the feet are really small, then just make the toes by adding balls of clay instead of cutting and shaping them. It is harder to proportion them, but is easier than trying to round microscopic toes.






    12. Using a needle tool or a ceramic cleaning tool create the creases and wrinkles on the bottom of the foot.
    Enlarge picture showing bottom of foot.

    13. Using a needle tool or a ceramic cleaning tool or a clay shaper or whatever create the little "Y" shaped wrinkles on the top of the foot between the toes. Also be sure to broaded the side of the foot near the pinky toe by gently pinching the clay there. (You can see me pointing to this with my clay shaper).
    Enlarge picture showing how to create wrinkles and shape.

    14. Take your needle tool, clay shaper or stylus and gently draw the toenails onto the toes.
    Enlarge picture showing how to create toenails.

    15. Almost finished!! Using a stylus or knitting needle draw the tendon onto the top of the foot.
    Enlarge picture showing where to create the tendons.

    16. Use your blending brush soften the details on the foot until they look natural. Don't over do it or you will blend away all of your work! Correct the toenails, if you distorted the details.

    Pose and bake.
    Enlarge picture showing blending effects before baking.
    Woman of short-lived passions

+ Trả lời Chủ đề
Trang 1 của 17 1 2 3 11 ... CuốiCuối

Các Chủ đề tương tự

  1. Miniature crafts
    Bởi tvmthu trong diễn đàn Mô hình thu nhỏ - nhà búp bê
    Trả lời: 27
    Bài viết cuối: 13-06-2012, 10:04 PM
  2. Món ngon dễ làm
    Bởi tvmthu trong diễn đàn Thực đơn hàng ngày
    Trả lời: 8
    Bài viết cuối: 26-04-2012, 10:32 AM
  3. Vừa chơi trò chơi vừa học tiếng Pháp
    Bởi soixamMexi trong diễn đàn Luyện nghe
    Trả lời: 0
    Bài viết cuối: 17-02-2012, 02:19 PM
  4. Kỹ năng dẫn chương trình - Kỹ năng làm MC
    Bởi mtd-group trong diễn đàn Các lĩnh vực yêu thích khác
    Trả lời: 7
    Bài viết cuối: 09-11-2011, 02:30 PM
Quyền viết bài
  • Bạn Không thể gửi Chủ đề mới
  • Bạn Không thể Gửi trả lời
  • Bạn Không thể Gửi file đính kèm
  • Bạn Không thể Sửa bài viết của mình